2009 Fall Couture: Valentino

Why newbie Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli chose to do a colorless, i.e., black and sometimes nude, couture collection is questionable, alas, the creations are highly wearable, flirtatious, and super femme. With a rich mix of volume and transparency, the house still caters to the red-carpet set, but this collection might also appeal to the daughters of longtime clients. A couple details were unnecessary — the wings were silly and the ruffled shoes were distracting — whereas trompe l'oeil black lace and mystical headpieces were lovely. Not bad, but I miss Valentino red . . .