My my, hey hey; rock 'n' roll is here to stay — or at least it is for the posse of bed-headed grunge girls that Phillip Lim sent down his Spring 2013 runway. To a melancholy rendition of Neil Young's "Into the Black" by Chromatics, they drifted by — hands in pockets, eyes smudged with kohl — like old-school Courtney Loves headed into the daylight after a really good night. But where the Courtney Love of 1994 reveled in her ripped-up tights and tattered toddler dresses, these girls were undone in a modern way that could only be pure Lim.
The designer's starting point, the show notes said, was the literary "cut-up" technique employed by '50s poets and '90s musicians — the act of creating something and then literally cutting it up and putting it back together into something new. Thus, there was an artful, pieced quality to the slouchy layers and mixed-up prints on offer: an overall dress, for example, was sliced and inset with chiffon, while one gorgeous raspberry biker jacket had a second zippered underlayer that made for a cool trompe l'oeil effect.