Alexander McQueen

>> Bruce Oldfield, who has been tipped as the frontrunner to design Kate Middleton's wedding dress for months now, has confirmed that he is not Middleton's choice: “It has been such a subject of rumor and speculation over the past months, but I am not designing it. We will all know [on Friday] — and I thought I’d duck out of the ‘possibles list’ to give everyone 24 hours to place their final bets!” He added: “Catherine will undoubtedly look spectacular. She has a fantastic figure and knows well what suits her. I shall be intrigued to see her choice of design.”

With Oldfield out of the race, speculation is honing in on the other likely candidates who have not yet issued denials: Catherine Walker, a favorite of Princess Diana; Alice Temperley, and Daniella Helayel from Issa. Also entering late in the game: Jenny Packham, whose spokesperson said yesterday is “not commenting at all on the wedding.”

Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, Sophie Cranston of Libelula, and Phillipa Lepley have all also been reported as frontrunners, but all have denied repeatedly that they're working on the dress.

And Vera Wang's name has surfaced as having some kind of role in the wedding, but WWD thinks "that seems highly unlikely" — particularly that Wang, an American, would be chosen to do the dress. Although: sources apparently indicated that the designer may be involved at another level. A Vera Wang spokeswoman denied the designer is involved with the wedding, however, last night.

A newly-released Mario Testino portrait of the Middleton and Prince William, above.

>> One of sure to be many fashion figures wearing Alexander McQueen to Monday's Costume Institute Gala? Daphne Guinness, who plans to dress herself for the event — in a feathery McQueen gown — in one of the windows of Barneys' Manhattan flagship, starting at 5 p.m. on May 2. The stunt — which was Guinness's idea — is not in any way a peep show, she says: “I am not doing a burlesque — no way. I’m going to be getting dressed behind something. I’m not Dita Von Teese, nor shall I be.” Instead, she likes the idea because “there’s been this discussion for longer than I’ve been alive that fashion is not art,” Guinness explains. “My feeling is that this is another piece of evidence that, yes, there is a commercial side to fashion that is needed, but there are these crossover moments that do become art. I hope it works, and I don’t faint.” [NY Times]

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• Celebrating Alexander McQueen in anticipation of "Savage Beauty" — Vogue Daily

>> In anticipation of "Savage Beauty,” this year's Alexander McQueen-focused Costume Institute gala and its accompanying exhibit which opens next month, Sarah Burton shared some of her favorite memories of working with the designer. Among the highlights, the Fall 2006 finale dress at left, of which Burton says: "This dress was actually based on my wedding dress — I got married two years earlier. We had to figure out how to make lace work in the round with those ruffles because Lee hated gathering. So we cut out all of the flowers from the lace and reappliqued it on tulle to make our own fabric. This is the collection most people remember as the one with Kate Moss in a hologram. Oh, my God, it was so beautiful. He loved that show.” [Vogue.com]

>> LVMH is taking its time with the announcement of Dior's new designer, and it sounds like the decision still has yet to be made. At a recent shareholders' meeting, Bernard Arnault said the plan was to interview a number of candidates before making the call when "conviction" arrives.

But who's reportedly on the short list of candidates Bernard Arnault's advisors have submitted? Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Olivier Theyskens, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Prabal Gurung, and Sarah Burton. However, a source in Paris told WWD that LVMH is placing less importance on marquee names and focusing rather on “someone who understands Dior and fits the needs of the company.”

While Arnault, chairman of the board at Dior, is sure to get the final say on the appointee, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who has helmed the company since 1998, and Delphine Arnault (Bernard's daughter), deputing managing director at Dior and widely viewed as the eventual LVMH heir apparent, are also expected to weigh in. Apparently Dior execs are also receiving unsolicited designer suggestions from top editors and even shareholders.

Delphine, for her part, is seen as a champion of Riccardo Tisci; the Givenchy designer has reportedly been lobbying for the position as well, sketching out his vision for the brand. Bernard Arnault, meanwhile, is reportedly transfixed by royalty, and if Sarah Burton does dress Kate Middleton for her wedding at the end of the month (despite Burton's and the McQueen company's denials), she may pull ahead in the race. Arnault would be keen to launch the new Dior alongside the newly-married couple; Princess Diana, after all, helped catapult the brand's image in 1995 when she wore a Lady Dior bag and then in 1996 when she wore a midnight blue, bias-cut Dior gown by John Galliano to the Costume Institute Gala.

In the meantime, design duties are falling on Dior's in-house design studios, headed by Bill Gaytten, who has worked beside Galliano since the '80s. They're already creating the Cruise 2012 collection and have started in on the upcoming Fall 2011 couture collection, in preparation for its debut in July.

>> Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton (and McQueen CEO Jonathan Akeroyd and a spokesperson from the label) have all categorically denied any involvement with Kate Middleton's wedding gown, although many still seem skeptical about believing them.

But McQueen aside, which other British or London-based designers have taken their names off the list of potentials? Marchesa, for one. “I’m excited to see what [Middleton]’s going to be wearing,” Keren Craig said. “I think she’s a very stylish woman, and I think she’ll probably choose something beautiful and classic. I don’t think she’s going to go for anything too trend-based or crazy edgy. She’ll look like a princess!”

Don't expect to see Middleton donning London labels Erdem or Vivienne Westwood, either — spokespeople from each label denied any involvement. And although wedding gown favorite Alice Temperley is making no comment on the matter, WWD cites sources saying that she's not doing Middleton's dress.

So who's remaining mum on whether they involved? Former favorite in the race, old school London couturier Bruce Oldfield; Issa's Danielle Helayel, who is a Middleton favorite (but Helayel is Brazilian and doesn't have much experience with gowns — honeymoon garb seems much more likely); and Catherine Walker, a brand which specializes in wedding gowns and made Princess Diana's burial gown.

• First look: H&M’s WaterAid collection — InStyle
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• Banana Republic goes country for Fall 2011 — Fashionologie
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• Tamara Mellon on how she first met Jimmy Choo — Vogue UK Daily
• Balmain hires an unknown designer to replace Christophe Decarnin — The Cut
• Lady Gaga says Alexander McQueen is "working through" her — People StyleWatch

>> Kate Middleton's wedding is just over two weeks away, and now reports are circulating that she has commissioned three wedding dresses from three different designers. That way, she has two "backups" in case the designer of her chosen dress is correctly leaked, allowing her to choose one of the other dresses instead. Word is that Jasper Conran may be one of the dress contenders — and Fashionista notes that the designer has taken the images from his most recent bridal collection off his website. Middleton is also expected to change into a different dress for her wedding reception.

Cathy Horyn, meanwhile, is still betting on Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton as the winner in the dress sweepstakes. Horyn points out that when consulted, Alexandra Shulman reportedly recommended that Middleton wear McQueen, and notes that Shulman's wedding-themed May 2011 issue of Vogue UK features models wearing Oscar de la Renta, Bruce Oldfield, Vivienne Westwood, and Marchesa bridal gowns. "Ah, but no McQueen dress in the mix," Horyn writes, "Its absence raising speculation that maybe Sarah Burton, the creative director of McQueen, is making Ms. Middleton’s dress after all."

The wedding guest list was partially leaked today, and one designer is expected to attend: Victoria Beckham. Last month, it was reported that after Beckham sent Middleton a selection of three of her Spring 2011 dresses, the bride-to-be phoned Beckham to thank her and asked her for general advice on eveningwear for her honeymoon.

>> Diane von Furstenberg was shocked after her ski accident six weeks ago, she tells the Telegraph UK: "Do you know what everybody said? 'This is a great opportunity for you to have a facelift.'" But her swollen face and broken nose didn't change von Fustenberg's mind about plastic surgery. "Any doubts I had about not having anything done evaporated, because all I wanted was to get my old face back," she says. "I don't want to be anyone else . . . All these women with fake breasts and cosmetic surgery — all that just objectifies us again."

Von Furstenberg may be anti-plastic surgery, but she's pro-Kate Middleton, who recently wore a DVF dress to lunch with the Duchess of Cornwall: "She's always worn my clothes." As for the school of thought that Middleton needs to step up her fashion game: "She's going to be Queen of England, but she's not from an aristocratic background, so she needs to play the game. Still, I like the fact that she seems to be very independent."

The designer also has opinions on who Middleton should wear for her wedding: "I've always found weddings sad for some reason, but of course I'll watch it on television. I think she should go for Alexander McQueen. But you know what? She reminds me more and more of Diana. Everything about her. I think she's there to avenge Diana's memory — that's clearly what William wants. Giving Kate his mother's ring was a great gesture, and I think that theirs will be a happy version of his parents' marriage. But he absolutely chose a woman who was like his mother — that was deliberate."