Punk's not dead — just look to Anna Sui's Spring 2013 collection for evidence. From Siouxsie Sioux to Soo Catwoman, iconic punk women inspired the runway's cotton-candy-colored hair and double-liner makeup look. Editor Jessica Cruel headed backstage with beauty legends Pat McGrath and Garren to uncover the inspiration. Watch now to find out more about this statement-making style (and to spot Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls, Lindsey Wixson, and other big names in modeling, too).
Anna Sui was certainly smart to "bookend" her runway show with none other than Karlie Kloss — the designer's decidedly rock 'n' roll Spring '13 collection got a gorgeous lift from the Chicago-born beauty, who opened and closed the production. Anna dressed her models in vintage-inspired slipdresses, zippered jumpsuits, and lace minis and accented each look with a colorful pixie-cut wig — something we've come to expect from the bohemian-cool designer. Watch the full show now to see the collection — and Karlie — in all its glory.
Let it be known: you really can't go wrong with Karlie Kloss — clad in a leopard-print bikini top to start, and a gold embellished blue ball gown to finish — as your show opener and closer. With that, Anna Sui set the tone, full-force ahead, for a rock 'n' roll-meets-party down by the Seine kind of Spring. We're talking vintage-inspired slipdresses, lace overlays, zipper-enhanced jumpsuits, '90s plaid, and fierce minidresses paired with ripped fishnet tights — a veritable mashup of everything you would ever want to find at the back of your mom's closet and "borrow" as your own. Get your first look at Anna Sui's Spring '13 collection here; then, be sure to come back soon for our full review.
Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.
- Louis Vuitton has been named the world's most valuable luxury brand for the seventh consecutive year by the Millward Brown Optimor's 2012 BrandZ study. Vuitton is worth an estimated $25.9 billion, followed closely by Hermés at $19.1 billion and Rolex at $7.2 billion. [Fashion Etc.]
- Anna Sui's "genius box" — a collection of magazine clippings and inspiration pages from books and other sources that fills a whole closet — has spilled onto the Internet in the form of a newly minted Pinterest page. "Now, I can do this on my desktop!" Sui said in a statement. [Fashionologie Inbox]
- Louise Gray will design a clothing and cosmetics collaboration for Topshop that will go on sale at the end of August. "My idea behind the collaboration was to design for the Topshop girl a range that was young and fun, similar to both the fashion and make up I wear already," Gray said. [The Daily Telegraph]
- How do imitations of high-fashion runway looks end up on sale at mass-market retailers mere months after Fashion Week? The process involves almost everyone in the industry, including bloggers, magazine editors, buyers, retailers, and manufacturers. [Refinery29]
- Elsa Peretti, whose jewelry designs have made up 10 percent of Tiffany's net sales over the past three years, plans to retire. The company has worked with Peretti since the early '70s and is trying to acquire her intellectual property rights so that they can continue to produce products under her name. [The Cut]
- Uniqlo has named Novak Djokovic, currently the number one-ranked men's tennis player in the world, as its new brand ambassador. Djokovic will wear the brand's clothing on and off the court for the next five years, starting this Sunday when he plays in the French Open tournament. [WWD]
Let's face it: Anna Sui knows how to have fun. So much fun, in fact, that we were even treated to models like Lily Donaldson, Joan Smalls, and Lindsey Wixson smiling on the runway! For Fall '12, Anna drew inspiration from a 1960s Jean Shrimpton silhouette but, in Sui style, took care to put her own signature whimsical spin on it, as seen in the psychedelic patterns and color palette. While the super-textured shag coats, Woodstock-worthy caftans, and babydoll dresses certainly set the retro tone, it was the designer's attention to the owl motif that left a lasting impression. The knitted owl hats, owl-shaped sunglasses, and owl-embellished fingerless gloves were just a few of the not-so-subtle themed items found within this playful lineup. Also worth noting? Anna Sui collaborated with Coach to design this season's line of bags — newly debuted on the runway — and yes, they had owls on them, too. It was a total Anna production, just youthful and fun from start to finish.
- Trends: Owls, oversized Peter Pan collars, super-textured shag coats, '60s-style babydoll dresses, and bright tights.
- Colors: Rich autumnal colors — rust, orange, ecru — matched up with neon blue, fuchsia, and pink.
- Key Piece: The cozy shag coats over sweet babydoll dresses.
- Accessories: Newly debuted line of Anna Sui for Coach bags, knit owl hats, owl-shaped sunglasses, knit fingerless owl-embellished gloves, and neon tights.
- Who Would Wear It: Fashionistas with a taste for kitsch and color, like Hailee Steinfeld and Chloe Moretz.
>> Ladylike has been a key trend for Fall 2012, but Anna Sui decided to go against the grain with bohemian silhouettes, '70s-inspired prints, and bold colors. Most of the models the designer sent down the catwalk were clad in bright-colored tights, round sunglasses, and flowy, floral prints. These pieces are definitely not for the fashion meek; it takes mixing and clashing to be part of the Sui clan.
>> In honor of their upcoming Versace For H&M collaboration — in stores and online Nov. 17 — the two brands pulled together three events in one last night at New York's Pier 57. Through a gilded hall of mirrors, designers (Anna Sui, Joseph Altuzarra, Christopher Kane), supermodels (Linda Evangelista, Helena Christensen), and other such notables (Uma Thurman, Chloe Moretz, Nicki Minaj, Prince) were swept into a dark room framing a serpentine catwalk, on which Versace favorites like Abbey Lee Kershaw, Natasha Poly, Lindsey Wixson, and Daphne Groeneveld wore black leather headscarves, heavy kohl, and stomped to speaker-pumping music.
Cue the next: After her runway bow, Donatella Versace gestured guests to follow her into a green-lit, disco ball-hung room covered in oversized palm tree wallpaper. Minaj took the mic — dressed in Versace for H&M, of course — and inspired Alexander Wang to sing along in the audience to every song. Much to Donatella's pleasure — and Natasha Poly's, who sat on the shoulders of a friend so she could videotape the set on her phone — Prince was up next on stage. Versace fist-pumped when Prince gave her a shout-out, clapped above her head . . . and that was before his encore of "Purple Rain."
Finally, the last of the three-prong event: crowds that had been lining up before Prince even took the stage were unleashed into the shopping area. As Style.com notes, "Many of the women in the crowd made beelines for the collection's men's clothes."
A video of the show, below.
Smoldering Stares and Safaris — Backstage at Proenza Schouler, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Michael Kors, and Anna Sui
>> Energy was still high backstage on the second-to-last day of New York Fashion Week. Lindsey Wixson did a Lolita impression at Anna Sui (left); Frida Gustavsson pulled off a Marilyn Monroe moment in her leopard and feather dress at Michael Kors; and everyone gave their best smoldering stare backstage at Proenza Schouler. See those snaps — and more from backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Anna Sui — in the slideshow.
Photo: Greg Kessler
An all-star model cast including Karen Elson, Jess Stam, Arizona Muse, Karlie Kloss, and Lindsey Wixson hit the runway for Anna Sui's '40s-inspired Spring 2012 collection. With ladylike silhouettes, sweet, full-bodied prints, an electric palette — and turbans to top every look — Sui's Spring looks bright, polished, and marked with feminine charm in every detail. Nods to the womanly, the glamorous — and the very Parisian — were made throughout, in everything from the bold red lips to the lace veils, and the music transporting the crowd — including front-rower Sofia Coppola — to a bouncy dance scene in retro Paris. Indeed, the models themselves seemed to bounce along the runway in a peppy celebration of womanly clothes and colorful accents. Lindsey Wixson smiled flirtatiously, Karlie Kloss perfected her sultry half-smile, and the parade of beauties all done up in a mix of prints, socks, and sequins played perfectly to Sui's witty recreation of vintage style.
- Trends: Ladylike, sheer, lace, florals, prints, sequins, turbans.
- Colors: Purple, black, white, red, yellow florals.
- Key Piece: Karlie in the electric purple floral print frock and matching turban.
- Accessories: Cat-eye sunglasses, floppy hats, turbans, crisscross sandals, embellished tights, socks, and Sui's luggage for Tumi.
- Who Would Wear It: Witty, whimsical types who favor femme silhouettes and a taste for the retro; Kirsten Dunst.