An architectural aesthetic, specifically Bauhaus style, rules for BCBG's Fall 2012 collection. Structure manifested itself via colorblocking, but it was done on fluid silk chiffon shift dresses, so the effect was a pretty blend of strong forms on flowy silhouettes. The geometric shapes created by bold color combos — black and orange, merlot and blush — were intensified with textural plays like sheer insets and clever pleating that made dresses look magically fluid and sharp at the same time. To counter the collection's emphasis on lightweight materials like silk and chiffon, it also sent cozy outerwear down the runway — we have mixed emotions on the return of gorilla-armed coats, but the multicolor fur vests and canvas and leather trenches were artful choices for next season. The minimalist approach to geometric forms and bold color combinations, together with the flowy silhouettes, make for clothes that are ideal to wear to a gallery opening.

• Trends: Colorblocking, fur, architectural detail, Bauhaus.
• Colors: Merlot, blush, camel, cream, navy, coral, teal.
• Key Piece: The canvas and leather trench coat; the super-cool pleated dresses with tulle inserts.
• Accessories: Open-toe ankle-strap sandals, bags with contrasting textures like snake and suede.
• Who Would Wear It: Erin Wasson was in the front row, but the structured, urbane collection seems more suited to Naomi Watts or Thandie Newton.