Balenciaga: Spring 2012

Most shows wouldn't be able to top collapsing benches, which in turn led to collapsing editors, but such a small snafu couldn't deter the magnificence seen on Balenciaga's Spring runway showing. Staying true to the brand's signature style, Nicolas Ghesquière showed dramatic structure, volume, and space-age fabrics. “I don’t know if oversize is the right term for that type of construction,” Ghesquière told WWD. “But this famous, and for me, a very functional, concept of Cristobal is the idea of the space between the body and the fabric. The clothes float away from the body. It’s one of the big iconic things of Balenciaga. The fluidity of floating is beautiful, but it is something else. . . I think it’s something that Balenciaga invented." Shiny jewel-toned structured jackets, short shorts, graphic tops, fringe-like cellophane skirts, and pleated and folded trousers all rendered the cool, ultra-modern aesthetic the designer is known for. The dresses, ranging from oversize tunics to midi-length patchwork creations, were impossibly chic and innovative. Ghesquière, who is also famous for his covetable accessories, showed sharp and angular cutout booties and gorgeous leather oversize clutch bags. More details from the collection below, and check out our retrospective on Balenciaga.

• Trends: Structure, high shine, short shorts, patchwork, pleats, folds.
• Colors: Purple, dark gold, black, lavender, yellow, peach, red, sage.
• Key Look: All of the round-shouldered structured jackets.
• Accessories: Oversize visor hats, statement cuff bracelets, large leather clutches, sharp and angular cutout booties.
• Who Would Wear It: Women who crave ultra-modern statement pieces.