Maybe it was the waves, or the bold brows and strong lips, but in every look coming down the runway at Bottega Veneta Fall 2013, you could see a little Katharine Hepburn — that brand of elegance and confidence. It also had something to do with the dresses and coats — a lineup that bore a little resemblance to '40s femininity with bold shoulders on modest dresses cut to the knee; a rich red, brown, black, and golden-yellow palette; and lace-up oxford-style heels to complete the looks. Otherwise, there are probably not too many other similarities to be made in the collection; there's more attention to structure — more modern proportional play in cocoon coats or dresses with architectural ruffles sculpted from the waist down. Working primarily in satin and silk, with only touches of leather, Tomas Maier puts the focus on movement — the artistry is in the construction, the fold of fabric, the way the garment moves. Only sometimes is the art something more obvious, like the abstract patterns and embellishment applied to the line's cream-colored sheaths.