The Calvin Klein show may be the last big hurrah of New York Fashion Week, but it rarely disappoints. So as the crowd settled into their seats and the last of the paparazzi bulbs flashed, the vibe pre-show Thursday was one of quiet, celebratory anticipation.
And there was plenty to celebrate about the collection Francisco Costa offered up for Spring 2013. With its undulating lines, feminine proportions, and transparent fabrics, it was a lovely lineup steeped in subtle sensuality and power. Silk crepe, satin, and organza in pale neutrals and white looked delicate and sheer, but were manipulated in such a way that the pieces — mostly dresses — had an airy, sculptural quality to them. They moved across the body in structural curves, then nipped in softly at the waist. A whisper-weight moiré sheer fabric in black was especially intriguing; layered over solid white, it was both revealing and protectively reflective. A plasticized basket weave mesh, used on shifts and strapless dresses, had a similar, teasing effect.