>> Cathy Horyn Really Isn't a Fan of Riccardo Tisci —It's no secret Cathy Horyn doesn't love Riccardo Tisci's work at Givenchy — last October of his Fall 2009 collection, she wrote: "I’m beginning to wonder if [Tisci] has any ideas at least that are original." Of his couture collection in January, it was: "not so wild, frankly, about the lumps & bumps at Givenchy." And over the weekend, she found his Spring 2010 men's collection "just plain tedious": "To me, the Givenchy collection . . . smacks of the work of a stylist, rather than the specific vision of a designer. The collection has a cadged look of picking things up from here and yonder, notably Comme des Garcons. This method just betrays insecurity — the insecurity of a designer who doesn’t have a meaningful, real vision." But if you're a fan of his vision, The Cut has a video of Tisci going over his Spring 2009 couture collection. [On the Runway, On the Runway]
>> Phoebe Philo introduced her first collection at Celine — for Cruise 2010 — yesterday, and it was all secrecy: no pictures were allowed at the preview. Philo, dressed in olive fatigues, a black leather jacket and a putty silk blouse, Cathy Horyn reports, chatted with guests in the large raw space where her designs were being on racks with informal modeling: "It was a smart way to introduce the collection — the isolated debut rather than the big Paris blowout."
Style.com deemed the collection "spot-on" yesterday, and today, more outlets have had a chance to weigh in. From Vogue: "Was it any good? Oh, yeah, and then some . . . It’s what Philo did so well at Chloé — a look that’s just cool, plain and simple, and which every girl is going to go crazy for." WWD was less forthcoming with an opinion, but still seemed to approve: "Gone are the girly frills and eyelets in favor of a smart, far more austere and grown-up look rooted in classics."
>> THE ZEITGEIST —Cathy Horyn just posted an insightful state of the union-type speech that she made a few nights ago, focusing on fashion and some of the economic challenges facing the industry. Among the highlights: "'Green fashion' will become more and more important, and young consumers in particular will expect to see innovation and experimentation in this area . . . I am somewhat surprised that a big luxury group has not had the foresight to create a separate eco-brand of high-quality garments, with a casual yet sophisticated aesthetic. We’ve seen a number of niche labels, but not one that draws on the brand power and advertising reach of a luxury group." Perhaps that is precisely what LVMH has in mind for new investment Edun? [On the Runway]
>> THE ZEITGEIST —Alexandra Shulman recently said that she looks to the recession to bring forward new design talent — last time around we got Alexander McQueen and John Galliano — and today, Cathy Horyn asserted that "the recession could turn out to make designers better designers. Fashion houses, anticipating reduced orders, cut out the theatrics as they sought to appeal to a relatively new demand in luxury fashion: value. By the end of the shows, retailers were praising the level of craft and fabric research — and complaining when it was obscured, as at Chanel, by French-maid ruffles. Out of necessity, a lot of designers put on smaller shows. It meant that they couldn’t flub a seam." [NY Times]
>> Despite the prevailing '80s mood of the season, at his private show today, Azzedine Alaia only looked forward: "I don't believe in looking back — I don't want to revisit the 1980s." Both Suzy Menkes and Cathy Horyn were present for the unveiling, the former describing:
"Signature knits and leathers, woven into bouncy skirts that might have open-work decoration or intricate embellishment. Cut-out feather effects were hand-painted with streaks of white, while white cotton blouses also freshened up the tough side of black leather. Coats cinched at the waist and small leather jackets, whether in classy crocodile or pony skin treated to look like miniature leopard spots. The same pattern appeared on the knitted dress, form-fitting but kicking out at the hem."