This year marks 60 years for Chloé, but the French house is still as flirty and free-spirited as it was when Gaby Aghion founded it. The collection was shown under a big, airy white tent with an open roof so we could see the sunshine through the trees of the Tuileries above. It was the perfect setting for a collection that was all about volume, not the heavy, structured kind that weighs you down (or makes your hair stand up) but the kind of volume that makes clothes float and swish. Designer Clare Waight-Keller employed sheer fabrics, mesh, tulle, and big ruffles to make that point and cut slouchy, oversize shorts and pants that won't look great on anyone but will look fantastic on the right person. The ruffles — oversize ones adorning sleeves and hems — didn't feel too girlie because the silhouettes were kept minimal and clean. The color palette helped too — the show opened with all white before introducing ochre, peach, navy, and earthy neutrals. Even the girliest indulgence — floral appliqué on a short swingy skirt and down one leg of a pair of oversize pants — felt cool rather than overwrought. Those who love accessories will adore the metallic ankle-strap heels, which are a sure must have for next Spring, and the newest Amelia bag with beautiful contrasting trim and deco-inspired resin detailing.
Oct 1 2012 - 12:10pm