Derek Lam Is the Heir Apparent to the American Sportswear Kingdom

Derek Lam made his Fashion Week debut in 2003, sending out a collection that would mark a new era in crisp, clean, American sportswear. He redefined the classics, crafting a cool line of looks that felt utterly modern thanks to smart tailoring and attention to detail. What remains in each reincarnation is an unmistakably chic aesthetic — effortless, easy, and wearable. He loves color as much as he loves black; he experiments as much with the classics as he does with edgier designs and prints but continues to deliver a clever mix of the slick and the feminine. Click through for a look back at the San Francisco-born designer's runways and see exactly what we mean.

Fall 2014
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Fall 2014

Construction was of the essence, with carefully rounded shoulders and intricately pieced suede and leather skirts.

Fall 2014
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Fall 2014

A completely neutral look is anything but minimal with layers of intricate details.

Fall 2014
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Fall 2014

The designer broadened his normally neutral palette this season to include pale pink, cornflower blue, hunter green, and ocher.

Spring 2014
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Spring 2014

There were other texture moments, too, by way of a heavily sequined skirt and fringed accents on necklines and sleeves.

Spring 2014
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Spring 2014

Layering was big, with boxy crop tops worn over dresses. And texture had its moment to shine, such as this roughly woven dress you want to reach out and touch.

Spring 2014
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Spring 2014

Gingham was't the only thing retro about Spring 2014 — the turbans that walked the runway added to the plucked-from-the-past vibe.

Fall 2013
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Fall 2013

A minimalist gown showed off a folded neckline that was pretty, but not distracting.

Fall 2013
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Fall 2013

For Fall, colorblocking took a geometric spin, with triangular pieces featuring prominently.

Spring 2013
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Spring 2013

Lam showed a classic trench with an oversized twist.

Spring 2013
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Spring 2013

The Spring'13 featured this textured burgundy laser-cut paillette dress.

Spring 2013
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Spring 2013

A bright pencil skirt paired with a perfectly slouched pullover.

Fall 2012
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Fall 2012

For this dress, he featured both gorgeous brocade and the trend of the moment — a fashion-forward collar.

Spring 2012
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Spring 2012

The designer offered up megawatt brights for his Spring '12 collection.

Spring 2012
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Spring 2012

Leather pieces gave Derek's Spring '12 looks a little edge.

Spring 2012
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Spring 2012

A ladylike meets minimalist look.

Fall 2011
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Fall 2011

Fur adornments gave Derek's Fall collection a downtown feel.

Fall 2011
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Fall 2011

A sharp menswear-style coat.

Spring 2011
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Spring 2011

She also embraced maxi lengths and sheer fabrics.

Fall 2010
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Fall 2010

He also experimented with leather — way cool.

Fall 2010
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Fall 2010

In Fall 2010, Derek revisited his love of funky hats.

Spring 2010
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Spring 2010

And shouted her love of prints from the rooftops.

Spring 2010
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Spring 2010

She showed lots of leg . . .

Spring 2010
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Spring 2010

The Derek Lam girl got way sassy in Spring '10.

Fall 2009
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Fall 2009

And more fur!

Fall 2009
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Fall 2009

Derek played with beautiful draping this season.

Spring 2009
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Spring 2009

With streamlined silhouettes.

Spring 2009
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Spring 2009

And pops of color.

Spring 2009
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Spring 2009

Spring 2009 was a rebirth of cool-girl classics.

Fall 2008
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Fall 2008

And loads of texture and moody hues.

Fall 2008
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Fall 2008

Fall of '08 saw major drama!

Fall 2007
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Fall 2007

A plaid skirt to spice all the neutral tones up.

Fall 2007
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Fall 2007

Fall '07 was nothing short of amazing. This shearling vest dress is ridiculously cool.

Spring 2007
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Spring 2007

As well as crochet.

Spring 2007
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Spring 2007

Spring '07 saw a more ethnic approach.

Fall 2006
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Fall 2006

Check out those cool fur-sleeves on the trench coat — fabulous!

Fall 2006
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Fall 2006

This season injected some cool jewel tones.

Spring 2006
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Spring 2006

In Spring of '06, Derek was into crisp white pieces.

Fall 2005
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Fall 2005

How cool is that striped, cozy poncho?

Fall 2005
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Fall 2005

For Fall '05, Derek put his models in longer hemlines and cool hats.

Spring 2005
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Spring 2005

And retro swimwear!

Spring 2005
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Spring 2005

By Spring '05, he was into nudes . . .

Fall 2004
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Fall 2004

He was also into chic fur collars and cropped trousers.