Fall 2011 New York Fashion Week: Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso injected his minimalist doctrine with a dressed-up edginess for Fall. He set the tone with his first look: androgynous-looking model Saskia, with her cropped haircut and strong jaw, in a loose pair of trousers and a collarless leather and angora vest. From there, we saw two main ideas: structure via wool trousers and sharp jackets, and softness via silk chiffon dresses in blown-out graphic prints. What really astounded was the use of fabrics and color to reinvent the silhouettes. A strip of orange, lavender, and violet lent femininity to dresses and coats, and panels of leather or chiffon could toughen or soften a piece.

• Trends: Minimalism, colorblock, sheerness, graphic prints.
• Colors: Black, gray, ice, red, pink, lavender, rust.
• Key Looks: The chiffon dresses with flat suede boots highlight the tough/soft mentality.
• Accessories: Pointy-toe flat boots.
• Who Would Wear It: Women who go for pure, clean lines and a tougher minimalism. Tilda Swinton would rock this entire collection.