Gucci Spring 2013 | Runway

Gucci Spring 2013

Gucci Spring 2013 | Runway

Frida Giannini must be in a good mood. The sunny palette she employed for Gucci's Spring 2013 collection is indicative of an optimistic state of mind — and after last season's rich, glamorous outing of all black everything, this house needed a happy jolt of color.

The hot pinks, seafoam greens, lemon yellows, and shades of blue Giannini sent down the runway in Milan this afternoon were spot-on trend with this season's wider color story. But where others created volume from the waist down, this designer focused on sleeves and necklines. Ruffles added a flirtatious softness to shirts and dresses — on one, the treatment started at the neck and snaked all the way down the wearer's right arm. Bishop and angel sleeves abounded on solid colored garments, too — and it was hard not to appreciate that these effects weren't extended to the few printed garments in the collection.

But Giannini can still do not-so-basic black. Toward the end of the collection, she phased in two dresses and some separates in the color that incorporated her sleeves and ruffles. They were a lovely homage to Gucci's modern black moment (see: Tom Ford in the late '90s), but we wouldn't have missed them.