Jason Wu Fall 2012 Runway

It was chinoiserie-chic and brocade abound at Jason Wu's impressive Fall 2012 show. The designer paid homage to his native Taiwan — the show kicked off with the opening of two dramatic red doors and the burst of a gong — breaking down his collection into three distinct themes: Mao military, Qing Dynasty, and the '30s and '40s Hollywood version of China. For his military category, Wu showed a sleek selection of Mao military jackets punctuated with luxe details like fur and quilting. The Qing Dynasty was all about sharp-shouldered sheath dresses, inspired by the traditional Chinese cheongsam dresses. Wu played up the nonauthenticity of Hollywood's depiction of China in the olden days, adding over-the-top embellishments and even quirky tasseled hats to his undeniably gorgeous array of high-slit gowns paired with sexy black and gold studded sandals.

• Trends: Military, ornate Asian embroidery, tassels, brocade.
• Colors: Army green, red, hot pink, black, burgundy.
• Key Piece: Wu's Mao military theme set, particularly the Mao jackets and shirts, showed perfect tailoring and detailed work.
• Accessories: Black and gold studded sandals, wide belts, tassel earrings, quirky tassel hats.
• Who Would Wear It: Dresses will be worn by red-carpet beauties like Blake Lively, while sporty separates will dominate style setters like Amanda Brooks.