Mary Katrantzou Spring 2013 | Runway

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2013

Mary Katrantzou Spring 2013 | Runway

One of the most anticipated — and definitely the most crowded — shows so far this London Fashion Week had to be that of Mary Katrantzou. Her legions of fans packed into the Topshop Show Space on Sunday like sardines, cameras in hand, just to catch a glimpse of what the Athens-born prints master had concocted for Spring 2013.

And they were not disappointed. Stamps and banknotes were Katrantzou's focal points this season and, wow, what a statement they made. Printed on crisp white fabrics, woven onto brocade, and stamped onto denim (via a collaboration with Current/Elliott), the designer swirled and mirrored a dazzling array of motifs taken from kroner, drachmas, Deutsche marks, British pounds, and postal stamps culled from around the world.

But prints this intriguing must be handled with care, and this is where Katrantzou shows her greatest strength. On sharply tailored silhouettes like straight-lined trousers, A-line skirts, and tent dresses (some of which were manipulated by flattering folds and pleats), the prints were allowed to shine just as much as the garments themselves — and neither was overwhelming. In fact, each pattern was so well placed and well thought out that the overall effect was graphic, crisp, and actually quite flattering.