Miu Miu Spring 2013 | Runway

Miu Miu Spring 2013

Miu Miu Spring 2013 | Runway

Miuccia Prada has never been shy about referencing the '50s or '60s (we submit Prada's Fall 2011 and Spring 2012 collections as proof of this), but her Spring 2013 collection for Miu Miu took the two decades' ladylike style and subverted it with unexpected materials and accents.

The first look that came down the runway? A dark denim coat and high-waisted skirt paired with a white midriff top and green leather gloves. The styling here was '60s couture, but the attitude was uniquely modern. The same can be said of a few fabrics that look like they'd been tie-dyed here or there; shiny, almost plastic materials on elegant coats and skirts; and brightly colored furs with unregulated striped sections of black.

The overwhelming feeling was one of contrasts, and Prada herself got to the bottom of that. "It's about elegance, not elegance. Couture, not couture. Tailoring, not tailoring," she told WWD. Was it Spring, but not Spring, too? That would explain all the lovely furs.