For Spring 2013, Nicola Formichetti looked to the 1970s photos by Guy Bourdin, the Far East, and Wong Kar Wai's film In the Mood For Love. While those references weren't translated literally, they were there — especially in the form of lantern sleeves, golden embroidery, and origami pleating. In a palette of rust, mustard, gray, and green and in shiny fabrics like leather and vinyl, the collection was as sculptural and structured as we've come to expect from Formichetti's Mugler, but there were still plenty of wearable pieces. The opening series of fit-and-flare dresses were particularly appealing, as were several wide-sleeved t-shirt tops. And while Lady Gaga — who acted as musical director — was a no show in the front row, there was an exciting appearance of another kind: the first Mugler handbags. Those came in the form of clasp-topped clutches and boxy satchels; one was even inspired by Gaga's backside.