Structure, rubber, and slits: That's what Balenciaga Fall 2008 is made of.

Although the collection had continuity from previous seasons — cocoon-shaped jackets, cropped fitted pants, and greyscale color — surprises still abounded. Pearl-encrusted and rhinestone costume jewelry draped around necklines and wrists, deconstructed velvet bandage tops popped in primary colors, and hand-painted warrior armor closed the show.

But oh, the shoes! Silver on black pointy toe heels, white booties with sheer latex fluttering off the back and stilted square lucite heels all stole my heart.

This collection is definitely a more pared-down group than Nicholas Ghesquiere has sent down the runway in the past, but that's not to say that it doesn't deserve less attention . . .

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