Some designers seem unable to transcend their own self made idioms whereas others are always striving to if not create new ideals then at least expand the old ones, Vivienne Westwood's Spring 2009 Gold Label show in Paris yesterday is certainly of the latter category. Gone were her harshest of harsh urban warriors. The destitute dawdlers of a burned out and dropped out generation have lost their emotional resonance even for the woman that commercialized them.

Instead we saw creamy emperor goes to the countryside gowns, pink and print striped picnicking outfits complete with sun hat and basket, and even a few viable seaside outfits. We only jest a little when we say that the collection did has a kind of rustic romance to it. Sure the feminine was twisted a little with extreme lipstick choices, but in the end the tenor of the collection was one of sweetness and light. Just because it was a little perverted doesn't mean it wasn't there. It was Westwood with a little bit of flippancy.