Roberto Cavalli's signature brand of sex appeal got cleaned up for Spring 2013 with a collection that examined dark and light — both in fabrics and in the women who wear them. Cavalli's casting for this show put blond models in a wide variety of sweet all-white ensembles made from lace and laser-cut leather that simply looked like lace. These looks yielded to white pieces tinged with lime green or pale orange treatments like prints or more cutout leather. Eventually the mood darkened to not-so-basic black in looks frequently shown on brunette models: one blazer with embellished shoulders was paired with sheer black trousers, while a dress with dramatic, flesh-baring cutouts got the same glittery treatment. It was an interesting exercise in dressing different kinds of women from one point of view. And that focus on dressing women is part of what turned this offering into one of Cavalli's most appealing outings yet.
We'll take our rock 'n' roll with a side of wispy lace romance any day, and at Roberto Cavalli, you shouldn't expect anything less. In one of his prettiest tough-chick collections yet, we were privy to heavily perforated (and shredded) details balanced with a sensual brand of skin-baring lace, silky slipdresses, and crisp white silhouettes. And while you'll still find Cavalli's edgier wares within, there's something refreshing about this overt turn to lightness and femininity. Check out all the pictures from Roberto Cavalli's Spring 2013 collection now, and come back soon for our full review.
On her way into the Roberto Cavalli show at Milan Fashion Week, Solange Knowles once again nailed the mixed-print trend by donning a blue-and-white print dress with a contrast-lapel print blazer, both by Cavalli. This ensemble was eye-catching but pretty tame for Solange, as just last week we spotted the trendsetter working an even bolder mix at New York Fashion Week. The fashion maven completed her busy ensemble with black caged Christian Louboutin sandals and a bevy of gold accessories — a leaf bracelet, cutout cuffs, bangles, and a pyramid ring. Take a cue from Solange and pair a printed sheath with a printed blazer and caged sandals for a super fashionable look.
"Cavalli should be quiet because the 'Little King' could start to get angry," was all an amused Armani had to say when asked about the other designer's rant.
The post, which appeared on Cavalli's blog on Sept. 11, was a little more verbose. In it, Cavalli complained that the Italian Chamber of Fashion bows its head to major design houses like Armani and Dolce & Gabbana when it schedules Milan Fashion Week and gives them preferential placement. Cavalli worries that journalists leaving Milan early for Paris Fashion Week, which starts on Sept. 25, will miss his show, scheduled for Sept. 24.
"As usual, the Camera Nazionale della Moda is washing its hands of the situation and it will not go against the wishes of 'Little King' Armani, and therefore the problems are mine alone," Cavalli wrote.
Come Spring, this is the lineup every superstylish 20-something will want in her closet. Why? The fresh twists on leopard print, floral print, print on print, and patterned pants were all gorgeous to look at, yes, but more importantly, entirely wearable. For his younger line, Roberto Cavalli tempered the drama, giving us that signature, sexy Cavalli girl without the va-va-voom factor. Metallics were worked onto sweatshirts, and high-wattage geometric prints were streamlined on skinny-fit pants, done up in borders on silky button-downs, or washed perfectly onto sheer dresses you'd throw on to feel dressed up and totally sexy in under a minute. Truthfully, everything was just plain sexy — that perfect balance of edgy cool, like a leather jacket thrown over a sheer blouse, that felt entirely effortless and impossibly cool. And it didn't stop — even knits were given the cool-girl treatment with cutouts, and a menswear-style blazer was made infinitely more enticing with a lacy hem peeking out from underneath it.
- Trends: Print on print, vests, leather, sheer, metallics.
- Colors: Black, white, blue, nude, pink, purple, leopard print.
- Key Piece: We're loving the look of the blazer and lace; the cutout knit is a must-have piece.
- Accessories: Metallic ankle-strap heels, open-toe knee-high boots, mirrored glasses, colored chain necklaces, open-toe booties, slouchy messenger bags, and studded clutches.
- Who Should Wear It: Poppy Delevingne; we'd love to see Kate Bosworth in that chunky, cutout sweater and Alexa Chung in the metallic pullover.
Roberto Cavalli has joined the small handful of designers who took his cues from the sea this season: his Spring 2013 collection for Just Cavalli was inspired by a large tank of tropical fish he keeps at home. Vibrant colors like bright yellow, green, and purple combined with deep-sea blue to form interesting prints, and sequins that looked like glittering scales were applied all over one sweater and as accents on shirts. A blue-and-white print that featured conch shells was a cool addition to the mix, and it shone when paired with leopard print on the runway. Leopards may not be creatures of the sea, but this is a Cavalli collection, after all.
Hollywood's hottest women have been inspired by menswear for some time now, from crisp button-downs to loose-fitting trousers to cleavage-baring shorts suits, and the latest is printed suits. Christy Turlington chose an understated black brocade Stella McCartney number with a sparkling Edie Parker clutch in NYC, Ashley Madekwe blossomed in a floral Topshop blazer ($136) with matching trousers ($80) and leather UGG Australia ankle boots ($225) in Costa Mesa, Halle Berry went rock 'n' roll in a blue textured Roberto Cavalli pantsuit and Sergio Rossi pumps in Toronto, and Gwen Stefani donned a funky black-and-white print L.A.M.B. suit in LA. Take a cue from these fashionistas and opt for a daring printed suit instead of the standard solid suit for your next night on the town. Warning: this trend is not for the timid, so expect to get lots of attention!
The designer detailed his complaints in a post called "The Uselessness of the National Fashion Chamber." In it, Cavalli explained that he usually shares the last day of the Milan shows with Giorgio Armani, and was counting on their combined star power to keep foreign journalists in town for a little while longer before they head off to Paris Fashion Week, which overlaps with Milan this season. But Armani is scheduled to show on Sunday, Sept. 23, and Cavalli's show is set for the following Monday, the 24th. Cavalli worried that some journalists may leave early to get settled in Paris before shows start early on Sept. 25.
"As usual, the Camera Nazionale della Moda is washing its hands of the situation and it will not go against the wishes of 'Little King' Armani, and therefore the problems are mine alone," he wrote. "What can I do? Do I stay the final day, running the risk that some foreign journalists will forego my show, or should I overlap with smaller fry, smaller brands, acting as some of my colleagues do?"
Cavalli isn't the only designer who's encountered scheduling problems in Milan. Last month, Jil Sander announced that she would schedule her own shows independently because she couldn't find an ideal time slot.
She'll likely change into a glamorous gown when she premieres her new flick The Reluctant Fundamentalist at the Venice Film Festival, but Kate Hudson arrived in her signature bohemian style. The actress wore a brown heart-print romper with matching python peep-toe pumps and Ray-Ban aviators. She didn't leave home without her celebrity-favorite Simone Camille embellished bag, as well as an oversize turquoise cuff. A large white Roberto Cavalli satchel also accompanied Kate to Venice. Whether or not you'll be traveling to the Italian city, re-create Kate's latest ensemble in your city by pairing a printed romper with bohemian accessories. Shop similar pieces below to get started.
Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.
- Good news: Roberto Cavalli is designing a collaboration for Target. Bad news: it's only going to be sold at Target Australia. Strange news: Target Australia is not affiliated with Target Corporation US at all — even though they share a red bullseye logo. [The Daily Telegraph]
- "She is a real woman . . . strong and happy," Diane von Furstenberg said of Arizona Muse, the face of her Fall 2012 campaign. "She's determined, she is talented, she is a hard worker and she knows what she wants. And that is so DVF." [WWD]
- Karl Lagerfeld was once a little boy. [Racked]
- Elie Tahari has added handbags and small leather goods to his diffusion line T Tahari. The bags are priced between $198 and $328 and will be sold at department stores like Nordstrom and Dillard's. "Whoever is going to manage to bring luxury to the consumer is going to have a great business," Tahari said. [WWD]
- Karolina Kurkova says lemon juice and steam are key to keeping her skin crystal clear. [Modelinia]
- As a child, Nicole Richie was obsessed with (and dressed herself like) the TV character Punky Brewster. "She was my style icon," the designer says. "I would leave the house with a white sock and a black sock and then a green shoe and a red shoe, and I thought I was killing it. I thought it was the coolest thing ever." [Teen Vogue]
- Anthropologie has launched an in-house line of lipstick, called Albeit. The first collection of Fall colors is expected in stores and on the retailer's website by late August. [Fashion Etc.]
Photo: Models walk in Roberto Cavalli's Fall 2012 show.