Suzy Menkes, ever the astute fashion observer, notes that as a new generation of fashion consumers ages out of girlish styles they looking for clothes that keep the lightness but cut the sweetness. Thankfully there are many lines to grow into as designers as diverse as Akris, Anne Valerie Hash, Issey Miyake, and yes even Chloé help us ease into our older years with light feminine clothing that is refreshingly free of cloying adolescence.
In our current economic situation, and considering that we're finishing off the Paris shows, it feel the right thing to pay attention to designers with decades of experience (and the economic ups and downs that go with that) under their belt. Sonia Rykiel spoke with WWD in an interview that went live this morning, where she talks about creative distribution in her company, now also headed by her daughter, Nathalie, and designer Gabrielle Greiss, as well as her beginnings as a designer forty years ago. Considering all we've been reading falls on these lines, it's a comfort to be given some perspective.
Oh dear, Paul Smith is opening an outlet in Williamsburg. Prepare yourself for editorial and conversational anecdotes about how "up and coming" is the neighborhood that is neither cutting edge nor undiscovered. That's not to say that we don't think the Williamsburg area isn't filled with talented, unique people, many of them important to the culture of fashion in New York, but we're not shocked at the arrival of the outlet. We've an APC outlet just down the road, OAK just up, and about a dozen bourge-y cafes in between. People shouldn't be shocked by this decision. We've seen Paul Smith outposts in the smallest, most desolate, European airports.
Suzy Menkes just celebrated twenty years as fashion editor at the International Herald Tribune, and there's a fashion designer-studded video to prove it. Menkes we saw quite a bit from London Fashion Week and while we pretended to do various purse-digging things we picked up quite a few sound bites from our favorite fashion writer. We can tell you for one that she wasn't very thrilled about going to Fashion Fringe (which everyone buzzed about all week) and that she uses a PC in the media lab among the rest of us lowly bloggers and photographers.
When we're going to just throw up our arms and stop reporting on this all together we do not know...for old times sake, there's a new collaboration hitting stores in London. Former creative director for Balmain and right hand man to Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Giles Dufour, is launching a knitwear collab with Browns.
>> Suzy Menkes's 1.7 million-plus words during her twenty years as fashion editor at the International Herald Tribune were commemorated on Saturday with a special video. "You've made me cry . . . To earn a glowing review from you is the holy grail of fashion," John Galliano declared. Anna Wintour, Franca Sozzani, Karl Lagerfeld and then some all honored the Samurai, Olivier Theyskens with his words as much as his pompadour hairdo — which apparently got a big laugh. Even Marc Jacobs chimed in — but only with kind words, and no sticking out of the tongue. But let's be honest — in the middle of show season, who would dally with such an influential reviewer?
Congratulations to Suzy Menkes our favorite fashion samurai for her 20 years at the International Herald Tribune, fashion wouldn't be the same without her incisive, intellectual and down right funny writing. Plus who doesn't love that she gets her write ups done nearly as quickly as your average blogger?
Net-a-Porter and McQueen are solving the how to seat everyone in the age of new media and just doing the damn show online. Democracy NOW! Except for the price tag of course.
Could the outlet mall be the future of luxury? Value Retail does luxury on the cheapish.
Sophia Coppola directed Christian Dior’s Miss Dior Chérie fragrance newest commercial. The ad, scheduled to go worldwide early next year, stars Belorussian model Maryna Linchuk.
Burberry is opening a children's store in the Westchester Mall in NY. Doesn't their first freestanding kiddie store in Hong Kong look darling?
>> INSIDER WIRE —In a new video interview by International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes with Tom Ford about his new Milanese store, the designer has the most affected, pseudo-British, radio-style accent ever. Keep in mind that he was born in Texas and grew up in New Mexico — maybe it was encouraged by Suzy's British accent — but wow. Amazing. [The Cut]
>> Tom Ford was never one for low-dollar apparel; As he introduced reporters to his new store in Milan yesterday, where suits will sell for upwards of $3,800, he himself was wearing $10,000 boots.
Later, the man of the hour and his business partner through thick and thin, Domenico De Sole, celebrated the store opening at a Milanese palazzo with a chatty Anna Wintour, Tom Ford campaign model (NSFW) Jon Kortajarena, and a camera shy Miuccia Prada. Full gallery of the festivities below.
*image: source, source
It's true. In Monday's "Computerphobia: Is It Undermining The Fashion Industry" penned by Suzy Menkes for the International Herald Tribune, the point is most definitely driven home. Sure, we've all heard the redundant Lagerfeld sound-bite about how he owns fifty ipods which he hasn't the slightest idea how to use (conjure the mental image, now shiver) but Menkes offers a much broader scope of the technophobia at work in the fashion industry. In summation, no one really knows how to "surf the net" and the fact that they didn't respond to this question by laughing proves the point. It will be unfair to spend the next five hundred words making such easy fun ("I have two screens on my desk - one for Google, the other for e-mail and I surf the Net for an hour a day." says chief executive of PPR's Gucci Group) and likewise time-wasting to speculate whether it is undermining the fashion industry. As usual, Menkes wrote a fine article, but this time with a news-y title that didn't fit the bill. It's not like Nicholas Ghesquiere need to post myspace bulletins about Blenciaga's new Fall 08 collection, or Raf Simons need to send off nasty emails to the Jil Sander interns. That is, the combination of being up front about their lack of interest and being of a generation in which they do not think with the internet in the first place saves them the responsibility of staying current. Does it undermine the fashion industry? Probably not. Surely, someone is checking the email (and making sure the campaign videos make it on to YouTube). And someone, that is, thinking up the clothes. Multitasking is for the young!
All together now, P-O-W-E-R-H-O-U-S-E. That's right, it's the International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes and Britian's seventh richest man, Sir Philip Green. Here, Green tells Menkes about Topshop's generous (we're talking the big break) support of young designers like Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab. And even though he has to take out a piece of paper to remember their names, we don't doubt that he means what he says. Otherwise, the British wouldn't have knighted him!
Video courtesy of the International Herald Tribune