>> "Really, it's just the flavor," said Stefano Pilati, when describing his Pre-Fall 2011 collection for Yves Saint Laurent. "When you go back to look at these things, they are amazing, but you cannot wear them now." The flavor that he was referring to? Yves Saint Laurent's poignant Opium collection of 1977 and the forties-inspired YSL collection from 1971. To make the look modern, Pilati remixed Saint Laurent's old day opulence by adding long sleeves — a key Pre-Fall trend — to a reproduced print dress from the archive. And: decadent cashmere coats came equipped with detachable fox fur hoods.
YSL, of course, says the choreography is simply meant to seduce the viewer and showcase the perfume's intense nature. Maybe I'm blind, but the most objectionable thing I see in this commercial is some major sexyface. Plus, if they think that the motion from the video is really what injecting drugs looks like, I think maybe it's time for a private screening of either Trainspotting or Requiem For a Dream. Should this ad have been banned? Check out the commercial (no sound needed) after the jump.
Julianna Margulies strolled the red carpet in a gorgeous red strapless Yves Saint Laurent gown. She accessorized with a simple black clutch, and diamond earrings and a ring by Bavna, and went for subtle smoky eyes and nude lips. It's a simple look that still makes a statement — but do you love it or hate it?
Vote on all of our Screen Actors Guild Awards polls here!
>> Pre-Fall 2011 collections from the likes of Proenza Schouler, Chanel, and Preen all showed off a selection of exotic prints. If you're anxious to get a jump on the look now, peep our two ensembles — featuring one bohemian and one polished outfit.
Bohemian Layers, left to right: Clemens en August Turtleneck Sweater ($139, originally $555), Lotta Stensson Nairobi Printed Silk Top ($355), Topshop Skinny Belt ($32), Madewell Rocker Jeans ($110), Yves Saint Laurent Clutch ($669), Topshop Navy Loafers ($128), Lee Angel Bracelet Set ($100)
Polished Chic, left to right: Dries Van Noten Candy Silk Blouse ($499, originally $715), Valentino Cropped Wool Coat ($3,290), Alexander Wang Skinny Trousers ($193, originally $385), Erickson Beamon Swarovski Crystal Tulle Necklace ($287, originally $955), Lauren Wolf Jewelry Triple Pyramid Stud Ring ($125), Mulberry Sofia Tote ($750), Kors Michael Kors Suede Booties ($199, originally ($295)
>> Stefano Pilati has an appreciation for things like Pee-Wee Herman, Glee, Rihanna, and LCD Soundsystem (which now provides music for Yves Saint Laurent's shows), but he also knows how to get serious. Yves Saint Laurent's sales have gone from nearly $100 million in losses to a profit, he tells W's February 2011 issue — not that it's been easy.
Because the label's founder so transcended fashion, Pilati says, he feels obliged to design to a higher standard — creating collections to build a woman's wardrobe over time rather than capturing a moment. His debut Yves Saint Laurent collection, he explains, “was the first time in my career that I didn’t think about a theme, when I started to think about something that could be timeless. I said to myself, You need to be relevant to a different level now. You can’t be only ‘I like red, and clogs instead of moccasins.’”
Working at Yves Saint Laurent has also made Pilati think about more than just the clothes he wants to create. "I’m not a businessman,” he says, “but I’ve become one by necessity.” It's routine for fashion brands to give accessories prime real estate in their ad campaigns — because handbags and shoes account for such a large percentage of their businesses. But Inez van Lamsweerde, who photographs Pilati's YSL ads every season with her husband, Vinoodh Matadin, says: “In the beginning, we almost had to beg him to put a bag in the picture. He said, ‘No, with this dress, you would not wear a bag — that’s not chic; that’s not how it works.’” Pilati has learned since — the latest Saint Laurent ads show Arizona Muse, bag in plain view.
When Pilati is asked whether he wishes he had a business partner counterpart like Pierre Berge to take all the commercial aspects off his hands, he replies: “It would be fantastic to be purely creative. Still, you want to walk in the street and see people wearing your clothes, and to do that you have to direct your creativity. So you already fulfill a part of what we think about as marketing from a commercial point of view. Giving the pantsuit to women — that was creative and instinctive, but it was also supported by the fact that women needed it, and, Berge or no Berge, Saint Laurent was the one who did it. The role of Berge, or today of the CEO, is to create a structure that can help your objective and sell the idea.”
There have been rumors about Pilati's standing at the company, but YSL CEO Valerie Hermann describes her relationship with Pilati as “a nice tension.” They have “constructive confrontations,” she says, but: “I’m learning from what he’s saying and listening with respect. What’s most important is that we always agree about where we want to go with the brand, and the confrontation is about how to get there.”
Pilati breaks his relationship with Hermann down as thus: "The roles are by nature split in the sense that the CEO has to respond to a group with numbers and performance and budget and business plans, while the creative director is almost at the service of the CEO. In those days, Saint Laurent was doing the tuxedo, and Berge helped him sell it. Now we live in a moment when we need to thank the CEO. I’m doing the bags, I’m doing the shoes, I’m doing the satin dresses, I’m doing the tuxedo, but if the performance of the brand is good, it’s because it has been managed well, and that includes managing the creative director.”
Kourtney Kardashian has been pulling out all the sartorial stops while promoting her new reality show, Kourtney and Kim Take New York. For a recent TV appearance, Kourt opted for a city-chic all-black ensemble, tucking a silky blouse into a flouncy statement skirt, then adding sky-high heels, a patent leather clutch, and loads of gold baubles. Click to shop her funky, downtown-cool look.
>> Jourdan Dunn appeared in Vincent Cassel's Yves Saint Laurent men's fragrance campaign a couple of years ago, but for Spring 2011, she's got her own Yves Saint Laurent beauty campaign. Shot by Terry Richardson for YSL Touche Eclat, the ad marks Dunn's first solo beauty campaign and her first big campaign since her pregnancy in 2009. [Models.com]
What are we to think? Platform shoes were all over the Spring runways, yet three highly respected shoe designers told WWD that platforms are a fashion don't for 2011. Alejandro Ingelmo, who designed floral wedges for Chris Benz, said the top trend for 2011 would be "skinny sophisticated heels," while Tabitha Simmons, Manolo Blahnik, and Bruno Frisoni listed platform heels as a fashion "don't." So now I turn it over to you — do you prefer platforms or stilettos for 2011?
The Latest Spring 2011 Ads — Crystal Renn in Colorful Jimmy Choo, Plus Ralph Lauren, D&G, and More Chanel
>> In the latest round of Spring 2011 ad campaigns to pop up, Crystal Renn nabbed a starring role in Jimmy Choo's colorful, colorblocked set shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin; Baptiste Giabiconi sprays Freja Beha Erichsen and Stella Tennant in their Chanel suits with a water hose; and Ellen von Unwerth, who first found fame photographing Claudia Schiffer for Guess, is back for another round with the brand.
Manish Arora Rumored to be New Paco Rabanne Creative Director; Yves Saint Laurent CEO Reportedly Scouting Haider Ackermann
>> Paco Rabanne has slowly been edging back into the fashion game — first with handbags that hit stores next month, and then with clothing, which is promised soon after. The namesake designer, who has been consulting on the relaunch of Rabanne, recently said: "The Paco Rabanne brand is and must remain what it has always been: audacious." And now, it's rumored that Manish Arora may be tapped as the new creative director; though it's not confirmed, Aurora does have a knack for color and print. And speaking of designer rumors, there's also one going around that Haider Ackermann is being scouted to replace Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent — apparently YSL CEO Valerie Hermann attended Ackermann's Spring 2011 show in October incognito, without an offical ticket request or RSVP. [Racked, Racked]