Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring 2013 | Runway

Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring 2013

Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring 2013 | Runway

Maria Cornejo's show notes called her Spring 2013 collection future primitive. 'It's about looking towards the future, but with a nod to the past,' she said. The most forward-thinking thing about this collection in particular may be Cornejo's exercises with balanced shapes and squared hemlines — new tricks for a designer whose past collections have been concerned with asymmetry. The clothes this time were geometric in a different way: jackets made from scuba material had soft shoulders, slightly nipped in waists and ended in straight lines. Voluminous skirts jutted out at the thigh before coming to a close under the knee.

The color palette and imagery in the clothes helped with the futurism, too — steely grays and crisp whites felt clean, and a blue-and-black print was actually a photo of a Giacomo Balla sculpture from the '20s.

Cornejo gave the same treatment to a picture she took of crop circles from an airplane window and a street art collage. That sentimentality was part of this collection's look back at the past, as was the hand-knitted macrame from Bolivia and hand-crafted Victoria Simes jewelry included in the collection.