>> Marc Jacobs's longtime business partner Robert Duffy joined Twitter on January 29 — catch him while you can, he says he's only Twittering until Feb. 16 after the Marc by Marc Jacobs show. In the week or so he's been on the social network, however, Duffy has shed a lot of light on upcoming projects at the company — as well as his business philosophy. For instance:
Duffy went to Los Angeles last week to work on an undisclosed movie project.
"Working on a movie project in LA. Also helping to edit a photo book about all the people that work with us. It's amazing! . . . The kids I work with all over the world are the most inspiring ever! So a book is being done on them. Working title 'the men and women of mj.'"
In this economy, fashion houses want to cut corners wherever they can. In comes Missoni with its genius conception. For Spring '10, the fashion house skipped the expensive models for something much nearer and dearer to its heart: its famiglia.
“I wanted to highlight our reality and our lifestyle, which is reflected in our unique product and in the artisanal aspect,” said Angela Missoni. “This campaign really reflects the mood I’m in these days, even from a design stance.”
With the help of Juergen Teller, the Italian fashion house told a unique story with images of the whole clan — all wearing Missoni, of course — enjoying dinner at Missoni founders, Rosita and Tai Missoni’s, house. The beautiful Margherita and Teresa are present, along with Francesco Missoni, Ottavio Junior, Marco, and Giacomo Missoni. Such a sweet way of showing off its amazing collection of knits, prints, and decadence. Makes me wish I was a Missoni . . .
>> The trend of using uniform, indistinguishable models has been taken one step further this season: a couple of prominent brands have chosen to crop their models' heads out of ads, eluding any recognizability. Two out of three Prada Spring 2010 ads out so far show a model, the upper half of her head lopped out of the picture, with bag swung over her shoulder; the third ad finally shows her full face, revealing her to be Rasa Zukauskaite. And in Phoebe Philo's first campaign for Celine, shot by Juergen Teller, the first photo out includes four bodies, but no heads or feet at all. Perhaps further down the line the faces of Lisanne de Jong, Carmen Kass, Jacquelyn Jablonski, and Valerija Kelava — all said to be Celine Spring 2010 faces — will be revealed?
>> First Look: Jamie Bochert for Marc Jacobs Spring 2010 —It's only appropriate, since her career owes its second wind to opening a Marc Jacobs show, that Jamie Bochert would lend her jolie laide look for the brand's Spring 2010 ads. Ever ironic Juergen Teller's lens is, Bochert — who is also said to be the face of Lanvin this season — takes a balletic pose in the first image out, tulle surrounding her, while standing in a toilet. [Models.com]
>> Spring 2010 may be a "safe" campaign season in the making, but not all designers are afraid to change things up. Word is up-and-coming photographer Josh Olins has breached the usually ad-shooting group of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, David Sims, Steven Meisel, and Steven Klein, nabbing the Spring 2010 Giorgio Armani campaign as his own. And it's rumored Juergen Teller won't just be exclusive to Marc Jacobs image-making this season: apparently he's helping Phoebe Philo curate the new Celine image by photographing newcomer Valerija Kelava and Carmen Kass for her first ads for the brand.
As for Stefano Pilati, it sounds like he's sticking to his winning supermodel-Inez and Vinoodh formula, going on six seasons strong. Natalia Vodianova, WWD reports, is said to be next up.
>> Juergen Teller has regular work in Vogue UK, Vogue Paris, and of course W — but it's difficult to recall the last time he was published in Vogue (besides his ad work for Marc Jacobs). A quick search turns up a Vogue editorial with Christy Turlington — but dated 1994. His comments to The Moment about which of his ad series for Marc Jacobs were most controversial may provide clues as to why:
Funnily enough the most complaints were about the series with Dick Page and James Gibbs because they are a gay couple. Men’s Vogue even refused to publish it. Dick is a very close friend of mine and I’ve known him for 20 years — he’s been part of the Marc family for 20 years. And I like the idea of having a gay couple in a men’s ad because it makes sense. And I wanted the ads to be like they are — very romantic, tender and sweet. I certainly didn’t want to have anything provocative, not at all. The only other controversy that comes to mind also involved Vogue — the women’s one — over an ad of a clothed Cindy Sherman and me in which I am grabbing her breasts. That caused a stir. Go figure.
Although many suspected the Spring 2007 set with then 12-year-old Dakota Fanning would have caused Teller trouble, he says not so: "The Dakota ones caused nothing, and they are pretty hard-core. They are on the border of being too much, even for me. I don’t remember hearing much about it, but if there was any controversy it was very under the radar."
>> The first issue of POP under Dasha Zhukova's guiding hand hits newsstands tomorrow at $8, with two international newsstand covers, each with a 50/50 split run, of Style Rookie's Tavi, plus a 500-copy limited-edition hardback cover by Ed Ruscha (below, left), and a limited subscriber's cover of Cicciolina for the Baltic States (below, right).
“The new Pop launches at an exciting turning point in fashion, where the possibilities and potential for creativity are almost overwhelming,” Zhukova told WWD. “The new era is more fluid than ever before; one where teenage girls in Chicago, fashion editors in Paris, street photographers from Berlin and bloggers everywhere . . . redefine the fashion landscape.”
New York Fashion Week Tidbits: Juergen Teller To Make an Appearance, Zac Posen Explains Venue Change
>> New York Fashion Week is a little less than two weeks away, and the tidbits are flowing freely — a compilation of the highlights from the past couple of days:
- Juergen Teller is meeting Cathy Horyn for a free, open to the public, discussion about his work at New York's Visual Arts Theater Sept. 12, 7 pm [On the Runway]
- Zac Posen explains his move from the big Tent at Bryant Park to a smaller Altman Building show for 400: “For this collection, an intimacy between model, clothing and audience could only be achieved in a smaller space. I really enjoyed the experience of a more intimate show after Pre-Fall 2009, followed by our successful Resort 2010, which was held at my downtown atelier." [WWD]
Who's Kate Lanphear styling? »
UPDATE: The cover has been removed.
>> The first POP cover under Dasha Zhukova for Fall/Winter 2009, featuring 13-year-old blogger Tavi from Style Rookie in artwork by Damien Hirst, is said to be the image at right. Hirst's participation marks Dasha's push to make the magazine reach further than just the fashion world as it had primarily in the past; her goal when first appointed editor in February was to "provide a broader point of view focusing also on art, contemporary culture and the globalisation of all things pop-related."
We've had a blurry peak at one of the magazine's editorials inside; the cover also boasts a contribution by Juergen Teller, a M/M Paris "bookzine," a 25-year tribute to Naomi Campbell, and "a stem-cell research celebration by Rodarte." If Tavi is indeed on the cover, it's worth noting that a couple of weeks ago, a preview from LOVE's upcoming issue circulated featuring Tavi — ironic that her first two major magazine appearances happen to be in Katie Grand's former magazine (POP), and her current magazine (LOVE).
>> Nothing's going to beat the Fall 2009 Marc Jacobs ad with Natasa Vojnovic leaning out of a brick building, but her campaign compatriots — Ajuma Nasenyana, Olga Sherer, Kamila Filipcikova, and Irina Kulikova — put up a good fight in this acid-washed full set, which was photographed by Juergen Teller back at the end of April.