OK, we've already checked out the wackiest runway looks from London and Madrid fashion weeks. And now that Milan's shows are over, here are 17 hair and makeup looks that could set trends for Fall. Some are hot, some are not — but not a single one is boring.
>> INSIDER WIRE — Raf Simons unsurprisingly finished with one of the top — if not the top — Milan collections for Fall 2009, and Suzy Menkes scored a rare video interview to chat with him about his newest Jil Sander collection. She points out that until he came to Jil Sander, he was solely a menswear designer, and he comes off as one would expect — very real and down-to-earth; when Suzy asks him, "Do you feel yourself as an artist?" He quickly replies: "No, I'm a fashion designer." [The Moment]
>> Milan is infamous for being one of the hardest markets to break open for models of color, and unfortunately, that still seems to be the case, based on tallying by The Cut. The worst offenders? Burberry, Giorgio Armani, Missoni, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, who all only used one model of color, while Gianfranco Ferre, Jil Sander, and Prada didn't use any.
Meanwhile, buyers have spoken on their Milanese favorites: Jil Sander, Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, and Gianfranco Ferré — surprisingly, Missoni was not in the mix.
A number of critics and retailers have Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi on their lists as Milan's most promising up-and-coming talent, but their situation at Gianfranco Ferre is currently tenuous — the front row Friday included three government-appointed special administrators, a reminder that owner IT Holding faces bankruptcy proceedings, and could take Ferre, Just Cavalli, John Galliano, and Malo down with it. Regardless, hopes are high — as Linda Fargo, fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, put it, "Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi continue to show the promise of world-class design for the future — both in their own line and at Gianfranco Ferré. We hope the dust settles favorably on Ferre as the two designers are hitting the right notes."
Other highlights on the to-watch list: Christopher Kane at Versus and, for next season, Vionnet, under the care of Prada alum Rodolfo Paglialunga.
If being the editor of French Vogue weren't enough, Carine Roitfeld is taking her skills to a television screen near you. Carine has allowed CNN to follow in her fashionable footsteps during Milan and Paris Fashion Week for a documentary slated to air later this month.
“I am being followed round all the shows, and they are doing lots of interviews,” said Roitfeld. “But you won’t be seeing me naked.” However, Roitfeld won't be watching CNN when, Revealed: Carine Roiifeld, is aired. “I don’t like watching myself,” said Roitfeld. Aw, come on Carine!
To see a preview of Carine on CNN, read more
>> THE MODELIZER —Mystery solved; an anticlimactic end to the why Auguste Tomasuite (aka Auguste Abeliunaite) was crying at Jil Sander question. Her agent confirmed that the tearing was due to the harsh runway lights, and it was indeed Tomasuite who commented two days ago, "There wasnt any small shoes or my emocional [sic] problems!!!! The lights was very strong and cameras was flashing all the time. My eyes are very sensitive thats why i was crying." Apparently, two other unnamed models were crying at the show as well. As for Auguste, she's done for the season, even though she snagged Jil Sander and Prada spots — she can't go to Paris because she's too young. [Heard on the Runway]
Milan Fashion Week, A/W 2009: Burberry Prorsum Christopher Bailey stuck to a classic British Autumn look for the latest Burberry collection drawing from a dark color palette of browns and somber blacks. It has been criticized slightly for being too depressing with layers of tweed, heavy coats, and a shapeless silhouette.
Thus far, Milan Fashion Week has brought out a bevy of celebs and stylistas wearing their finest. I'm loving all of their fashion-forward frocks, but what's really catching my undivided attention are their dazzling adornments. Are you paying attention to their decadent accessories, too?
>> Frida Giannini's runway-clothes-as-merchandise concept for Gucci may be selling well, but it's still not sitting well with critics. Last season, her collection was likened to Zara, and this season her Fall 2009 collection earned another mall-brand comparison: Bebe.
Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes, neither of whom are afraid to be blunt, seemed indifferent to criticizing the collection — both just focused on Frida's decision to channel sex. But Christina Binkley of The Wall Street Journal got more pointed, going so far to ask "Who is the Gucci woman?": "[Frida] seems to develop a startling new personality each season, leaving last season’s clothes lost in relation to the new collection. Last season, she was globetrotting with flower children. This season, she’s shaking it in sequined leggings and a sparkling tunic at Studio 54."