>> INSIDER WIRE — Gareth Pugh surprised editors and buyers alike last week when they showed up for his runway show and instead got a video presentation with Natasa Vojnovic marching and contorting in the clothes. Dazed Digital scored a behind-the-scenes video of the shoot, and got Pugh to explain his reasoning for the switch: "First and foremost was the fact I had just done this big menswear show in Paris four weeks before the women's show. At a time when everyone is worried about money, I didn't want to come over as being overly brash by doing two big shows." [Dazed Digital]
Kate Moss and Jamie Hince kept the good times rolling yesterday after the Chanel show during Paris Fashion Week. They joined up with frequent companion Lily Allen to hit the label's after-party, which was held in conjunction with Another magazine. Kate moved things to her suite for an after-after-party that got so loud neighbors asked to switch rooms, but she was still out shopping today at Fendi. Kate will be spending more time in the French capital soon. She's agreed to help curate an upcoming exhibit at the city's Musee des Arts Decoratifs about her career, which is just the latest instance of her value to the art world.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Frida Giannini made editors nauseous with her dizzying Gucci catwalk pattern back in Fall 2008, and at John Galliano this evening, it was a case of "toxic" fake snow that had editors gagging. It stung eyes and the chemical smell had Hamish Bowles, Grace Coddington, and Glenda Bailey, among others, covering their mouths and noses. What a travesty: Galliano gave "his packed front row a collective asthma attack." [The Moment Twitter]
Alexander McQueen is one designer who always manages to be both freaky and fabulous. However, the harsh tone with his Fall collection, for me, veered on the hellish side of freaky. Craftsmanship and wow-factor will never be sacrificed, but these creations were something out of a Matthew Barney feature. It's like that scary movie — Hellraiser? — you can't look away from but makes your hair stand on end. In the end, though, I love scary movies. It's your call: freaky or Fab?
>> After Hannah MacGibbon's first Chloe collection, critics seemed ready to give her a bit more time to settle in at Chloe, as if they wanted her to succeed in the brand. And although she sent out a similarly pegged pants and muted colors in her Lauren Hutton-esque Fall 2009 collection, she's still getting encouragement — WWD noted that while MacGibbon is "still finding her way at Chloe," the collection "showed progress." Suzy Menkes was even more laudatory, hailing MacGibbon's coats as "some of the best outerwear in Paris," and writing that the designer made "a strong show that looked like she was taking the brand forward." Now, if she could just harness some of the excitement that surrounded the brand under other regimes . . .
>> No one fainted this time around at Alexander McQueen, but the show could win this season's Prada award for torturous shoes — even over Nina Ricci. Numerous inches were added to the festishistic heels, and the girls took every step with care — some even broke their runway stare to glance down momentarily, and Sigrid Agren looked around like she's frightened of the next step. Karlie Kloss, below, had to stop and fix her dress to keep from tripping over it. Suzy Menkes was discomfited by the display: "the models were tortured into dresses that hobbled their feet, making each runway step treacherous and giving a discomforting misogynist feel to the show."
Meanwhile, this morning at Hermes, another painful scene: supermodel Tatjana Patitz seemed to be out of practice on the runway. She almost tripped and fell three times, including when she closed the show. When Jean Paul Gaultier came out for his bow, he gave her a hug, and apparently she looked like she was about to cry.