Paris 03/10/10 WireImage
>> For the six days leading up to the Chanel Fall 2010 show, Karl Lagerfeld had the thirty-five person team who sculpted The Ice Hotel in Sweden brought in to carve a 265-ton iceberg, also imported from Sweden, in the middle of the Grand Palais. The room was chilled to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, and the iceberg was hidden from the audience under a large wooden box that mechanically rose when the show started.
Four models — Brad Kroenig, Baptiste Giabiconi, Abbey Lee Kershaw, and Freja Beha Erichsen (the latter two who are reportedly set to appear in the Chanel Fall 2010 campaign) — in furry yeti suits opened the display, "milling about in a daze" before dispersing, and giving way to a train of models sloshing through water from the melting iceberg; some even left shoes which came loose behind in their wake.
“Global warming is the issue of our times. Fashion has to address it,” Lagerfeld said afterward. And fur was everywhere — boots, skirts, pants, bags — but all faux. Karl said he went with faux fur for two reasons: first, Fendi does the best real furs and he doesn't want to compete, and second: “Technical advances are so perfect you can hardly tell fake fur from the real thing. Fake is not chic — we have got a new Chanel tweed to stop copies — but fake fur is.”
I've always heard Alexander McQueen's collections were emotional. No doubt, his final one was. The show notes read: "Each piece is unique, as was he." McQueen cut the collection "on the stand" just weeks before he took his own life. McQueen, always ingeniously fusing history and the future, orchestrated a collection containing digital prints and inspired by Byzantine art and Old Master paintings. We know the McQueen show will go on — succession rumors of Gareth Pugh or Olivier Theyskens swirl — but for now, a final round of applause.
The last collection designed by Alexander McQueen before his death was shown this morning in a gilded salon at the headquarters of Francois Pinault. Models walked slowly and solemnly in the sixteen looks to haunting operatic music. Tears welled in the eyes of more than a few spectators, as the audience took in the opulent, detailed McQueen creations with inspirations ranging from Byzantine art and Old Masters paintings to the wood carving and sculpture of Grinling Gibbons.
The show notes ended with the words: "Each piece is unique, as was he." Two days from now, retailers will be invited to purchase a showroom collection consisting of 160 pieces.
Paris Fashion Week concludes the Fall Fashion Week season — sniff. So far, Fall forecasts include army green, major furriness, cocooned knits, and maxed-out skirts. Rounding out that list is red. From Maison Martin Margiela to Givenchy, Sophia Kokosalaki to Isabel Marant, bold pops of red livened up the moody Paris palette. Silhouettes ranged from slick and slim to all-out poufy. Proceed for more highlights from PFW.