For Versace's Versus, Christopher Kane envisions a glittery Fall '11. Still, take that with a grain of salt, or in this case a helping of black leather, minimalist cuts, and sheer details to sober and balance what could be too youthful. Instead, the glittered, bold graphic prints meld easily with the more adult world — calf-length skirts, a bustier, opaque tights, and sheath dresses with sheer middles. He dabbles in the playful, neon-injected world of color that we see in his own namesake collection, but tones it down, adding more pants, separates, even knits — equal parts artsy and edgy with polish and restraint.
Boy meets girl at an '80s party, and by the end of the night they're sharing clothes. That seemed to be the idea at Dolce & Gabbana, who sent out a whopping 81 looks that alternated between oversized menswear and sexy dresses. The menswear, wrought of either wool or jacquard, had a boxy silhouette a la David Byrne in his Talking Heads days. The dresses were classic Dolce sexy, many with lace, star prints, or both. At first the gender distinction was strong, but at the end of the show, sequin leggings began popping up under blazers and dresses were paired with men's oxfords. The bold colors and patterns gave the whole show an '80s pop princess vibe with a big dose of dandy.
- Trends: '80s, menswear, jacquard, lace, star prints, sheerness.
- Colors: Royal blue, pink, yellow, black, white.
- Key Looks: The lace and star-print dresses.
- Accessories: Polka-dot oxfords, heels with socks.
- Who Would Wear It: Madonna and Cyndi Lauper fans, young rocker types.
Abbey Lee Kershaw opened Versace Fall wearing a sharp military coat, like the sexy blond captain of an army of equally sexy soldiers, who marched down the runway in meticulously tailored dresses and coats. The clothes were cut tight to the body and bore geometric cutouts, subtly adorned with military-inspired gold buttons and pockets. Leather made an appearance in full leather skirts with matching leather jackets, a cool mix of badass uniform and chic sophistication. Behind the scenes, it's Donatella who is the real general at Camp Versace, drilling home Italian sexiness. It was a show heavy in black, but Versace's signature colors — turquoise and purple — popped up in an oversized baroque print and two-toned suede lace-up booties. For the finale, things got a bit more celebratory, with flowy gowns bearing thigh-high slits similar to Gucci, and Arizona Muse closing triumphantly in a white beaded gown.
- Trends: Military, cutouts, leather, colored fur.
- Colors: Black, white, purple, turquoise, blue.
- Key Looks: A v-neck shell dress with baroque print, blue fur, and booties.
- Accessories: Calf-high suede open-toe booties, some lace-up; bucket bags.
- Who Would Wear It: Women who appreciate sharp tailoring, and a little toughness mixed in with allure.
>> Milan Fashion Week brings forth some of the most unique looks, as exemplified by Australia Harper's Bazaar editor Christine Centenera. The cool girl might be onto something with her lightwash baggy jeans, high heels, and studded jacket combo. We love it, and if you do too, get the same '90s rad look with our picks from G Star, Burberry, and Ann Taylor now.
Left to right: Burberry Short Studded Leather Biker Jacket ($5,995), Yves Saint Laurent Arty Swarovski Crystal Ring ($295), G-Star Hang Loose Tapered Jeans ($174, originally $249), By Malene Birger Cross-Back Vest ($79, originally $225), Via Spiga Pumps ($130, originally $185), T by Alexander Wang Cutout Jersey Tank ($42, originally $85), Ann Taylor Lizard Belt ($38), Graphic Image Leather Notebook ($90)
Photo courtesy of Greg Kessler
>> Do models have more fun in Milan? We think so, and these backstage snaps from Milan Fashion Week further that notion — Liu Wen, Arizona Muse, Joan Smalls, and Jacquelyn Jablonski appear to be having a ball behind the scenes. Coco Rocha dons a chicken on her head; Hanne Gaby Odiele flashes bunny ears to an unknowing Karmen Pedaru; that and more model shenanigans in the slideshow!
Photos courtesy of Greg Kessler