2011 New York Fashion Week

>> Prabal Gurung had us at look number one — when Karlie Kloss stomped out in a brilliant red dress, sexy in its full party skirt and sleeve nonchalantly slipping off one shoulder. The designer says he was dually inspired by John Singer Sargent’s A Parisian Beggar Girl and Miss Havisham from Great Expectations for Fall 2011, but really, it was about a simple challenge: "Can I do undone? . . . After such a long time of tight, short dresses constantly, I thought that was something so chic.”

Gurung returned to his dressier roots after last season's more sportswear-driven stint — there were textures galore (furs, sequins, intricate appliques and the like, which made for some expensive-looking pieces). But that's not to say that the collection was uber feminine; in fact, with its black leather moto gloves and leather lashings around the waist, it forayed into edgier territory than Gurung has tried in the past. Pink hair streaks (which have also been spotted this week on stylist and WSJ contributor Lauren Goodman and the model Charlotte Free) finished off the look, and evidence that the designer's star keeps rising came in both the caliber of model cast (Kloss, who walked Gurung's show for the first time, Constance Jablonski, Jourdan Dunn, Joan Smalls, Liu Wen) and the number of editor-in-chiefs in the front row (including Robbie Myers, Emmanuelle Alt, and Anna Wintour, who was joined by Bee Shaffer).

>> Libertine last showed in 2009 via presentation, and it's been since 2006 that the label has done a runway show. But designer Johnson Hartig brought his clothes back to the catwalk today, with former Libertine design partner Cindy Greene (who left the label two years ago), Rodarte’s Kate Mulleavy, Thom Browne, and Meredith Melling Burke and her daughter Eloise (who happily snapped pictures of the whole event with her mother’s iPhone) all in attendance.

The collection was a welcome explosion of color — ranging anywhere from hot pink to yellow — and pieces like giant puff-sleeved tops, funky frocks, and bright three-quarter length coats all displayed Hartig’s inclination for a vivid Fall. A screenprint effect was splashed over tops, silk dresses, tweed overcoats, cropped trousers, and even tights. The rare times when color wasn’t present, Hartig turned to black and grey wool jackets adorned with gothic-inspired embellishments. To finish off the looks, eye-catching tights and an amazing colorful selection of colorblock platform booties — designed by Hartig himself.

Often we're made to feel lucky to wear a designer label, so it's a pleasant surprise to hear this from Adam: "the starting point in designing every collection is the woman who wears my clothes." Adam, we're flattered. Beyond that, it was a trip to the National Museum of the American Indian that sealed the inspiration for his Fall 2011 collection. The Native American references were loosely suggested in a blanket anorak and an excellent textured sweater with fringe, but for the most part it was a peppy collection with elements of geek chic, Adirondack weekends, and the 70s working girl with a touch of utilitarian sport thrown in. Adam continued the long proportions trend of Fall Fashion Week with more calf-skimming hemlines, which worked particularly well in a black mohair dress with a lace back. Overall, it was a wearable collection of separates that will take the Adam girl effortlessly from weekends in the country to her 9-5 city job.

• Trends: Geek chic, 70s, utility, plaid, Native American, lace, lace panels, backless, longer hemlines .
• Colors: Claret, cobalt, cream, black, gold
• Key Looks: Mohair dress, gold embroidered dress.
• Accessories: Manolo Blahnik shoes, black plastic frame glasses.
• Who Would Wear It: Sporty, fun-loving girls who list travel and parties as their favorite pastimes.

Fashion Week continues on pace, and even though it's Saturday, there's still plenty to see. Designers Jill Stuart and Prabal Gurung, who are known for their innovative shapes and technique, had their shows, which brought cleaner, more classically styled looks to the fore. It was a particularly pretty and polished day, with a few fun 1990s throwback exceptions, so check out what the shows had in store.

Prabal’s show began with Karlie Kloss in a luscious, red, off-the-shoulder dress looking like she had stepped straight off the cover of a Harlequin romance novel, minus Fabio. In the background, a sultry version of Robert Palmer's "Addicted to Love" played, setting the stage for a super flirty, kitschy, and dramatic show that revolved around the theme of love. There were Victorian references in high-necked lace tops with fluttery bell sleeves, '80s moments with ombré furs and punked out hair, and just plain beauty with the lace details and empire-meets-peplum gowns. It was a plea for unadulterated romance, provocative and perhaps a bit naughty. The stylish crowd, among them J.Crew's Jenna Lyons, Garance Doré, Emmanuelle Alt and actress Jessica Chastain, seemed to love it, as they erupted in cheers at the finale, a rarity in fashion shows. For a look at the full runway show, visit FabSugarTV.

• Trends: Bandage details, lace, Victorian, '80s, backless coats, lace print.
• Colors: Red, ombré, pink.
• Key Looks: A lace-paneled coat, Karlie's red gown.
• Accessories: Nicholas Kirkwood for Prabal shoes, black leather gloves.
• Who Would Wear It: Ladies looking to make a flirty statement on the red carpet or at events.