Calvin Klein Collection

"The future is about new construction," said Francisco Costa after the Pre-Fall 2013 presentation for Calvin Klein. "You have to show something new."

What's new at this brand is a focus on generous proportions. Costa put rounded shoulders on generous coats belted at the waist like robes, and let slim skirts and dresses fall below the knee. Some of the looks were paired with turtlenecks or dickies (and a few were made from shaved mink), which gave the show a monastic feeling.

Not that there wasn't a little kink, too. One of those coats was cut from a shiny light-brown vinyl, and there were a few pieces — like a sleeveless shirt with a peplum and an overcoat — made from black leather.

Photos courtesy of Calvin Klein.

With Kate Bosworth, Kerry Washington, and Zoe Saldana suited up in the label's signature minimalism, Calvin Klein's Fall '11 spoke to that quintessentially-Calvin aesthetic in easy A-line shifts and subtle metallics. Where Francisco Costa embraces texture or embellishment, it's always simply delivered, understated on swingy black sheath, or full, classic coat. Then, you catch yourself staring at the shoes — chunkier platforms in the form of ankle-strap sandals and heels. It's the restrained, perfectly-refined minimalist look at the world that we've come to know and crave from Costa.

• Trends: Minimalism, furry, fuzzy texture, metallics.
• Colors: Black, gray, white, beigey neutrals.
• Key Looks: A full, fuzzy beige coat; a subtle, gold metallic shift and clunky ankle-strap platforms.
• Accessories: Clunky-soled platform heels.
• Who Would Wear It: Kate Bosworth; confident girls who stick to the minimalist code.

Following in the footsteps of Christy Turlington, Kate Moss, and Natalia Vodianoa (the most recent face of Calvin Klein from 2003 to 2007), 27-year-old Lara Stone has landed one of the world's most coveted modeling gigs—as exclusive face of Calvin Klein. The deal marks the first time the house has selected one model to represent three brands (Calvin Klein Collection, ck Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans).

No stranger to working for the creatives at Calvin Klein, Stone walked exclusively in the spring 2007 collection show and appeared in fall 2007 Calvin Klein Jeans and fall 2008 ck Calvin Klein Beauty campaigns. “I have a long history with the Calvin Klein brand, and so it was wonderful to work with the house again this year,” said Stone. “It’s like being part of a family.”

Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott photographed the fall women's collection campaign (at left) with the minimalist quality of Nineties Calvin Klein. The pair also shot the jeans campaign in which Stone appears with other models, and Fabien Baron photographed Stone for the ck Calvin Klein campaign with Abby Lee Kershaw.

The Fall 08 Calvin Klein Collection ad campaign stopped us in our tracks. We picked up the heavy September editions of the glossies last weekend. We had a coffee, we turned each page slowly, digesting each spread how it articulated (or shattered) our impressions of the collections from Fall 08. We know these campaigns have turned up in previous editions of the glossies but, we will be honest, September is the only month we really indulge in opening the books. That said, we felt that the Prada campaign did not make the impact we were hoping for. The department stores, by and large, butchered the clothing they shot. And Klein, by far, made the most impact. The Fall 08 collection was sharp and androgynous, it was just what we would have expected but dark and brooding and appropriate for the mood of Fall 08 (which commented on our economic climate). And the ads, their graphic quality, epitomized 'modern' dressing. We're happy to see that Balenciaga isn't the only brand who knows how to evoke this sentiment. If the collection pivots on silhouette, then the ads, we think, should follow suit (no pun intended). Below,our video interview with Francisco Costa, the Fall 08 collection, and, at left, a shot from our favorite Fall 08 campaign.