Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein's fragrance ads typically drip with overt sex appeal, but the brand's latest venture isn't quite so obviously sultry. This October marks the launch of Calvin Klein Beauty ($50-$85), a refined floral that will be backed by the elegant Diane Kruger.

"Certainly sex is in our DNA, but this fragrance speaks to a different audience [than scents like Obsession and Euphoria]. It is very much the spirit of [Calvin Klein] Collection — elegant, sophisticated, timeless and beautiful — and designed to appeal to a more mature customer," creative director Francisco Costa told WWD. Set to debut in October, the scent, inspired by the calla lily, will include top notes of ambrette seeds, a middle note of jasmine, and a bottom note of cedarwood.

But will Diane derobe much like Eva Mendes did for Secret Obsession? That's a negative. "They showed me the concept, and it was classy. So I knew from the beginning that I didn’t have to take my clothes off," she said. Expect to see the new scent, encased in an egg-shaped, silver-accented bottle, on TV, print, and online advertisements. Are you glad to see more clothing in this campaign, or do you prefer things more bare?

>> Calvin Klein Reportedly Discontinues Use of Size Zero Models —Francisco Costa recently said that always casting the youngest, freshest-faced models was becoming "a little too formulaic" for him, and now it appears he's been swayed by the current push for healthier-appearing models, too. Costa, who is rumored to have chosen Lara Stone to represent a number of the Calvin Klein lines come Fall, has also reportedly done away with casting size 0-2 models in favor of size 2-4 models. As 1 Management's Christopher Michael notes, "a sign of the times indeed." [@TheCreatrix]

>> Francisco Costa, Maria Cornejo, and Yoehlee Teng touched on everything from model casting to celebrity dressing to eco fashion last Thursday night at the Cooper-Hewitt museum in New York as part of the “Voices in American Fashion” panel, moderated by The Washington Post's Robin Givhan.

Costa, who is known for his unique show casting, voiced one vision for a Calvin Klein show that he hasn't yet fulfilled — street casting. "I wish to be able to just go into the streets and just start going. As a concept, I would love to do that someday."

Cornejo rebutted: "I have to say, the first show I did in New York, I did have all real people, only one model, and it bombed. The editors do not want to see the clothes on real women. It's more exciting for them [to see the clothes on models]. They want to be able to say: 'Oh, I shot her last week.'"

Both designers agree, however, when it comes to using young models »

>> In the wake of the womanly casting agendas at Prada, Giles, and Louis Vuitton for Fall 2010, The Imagist writes: "There's an unwritten memo now circulating  . . . amongst a tight circle of model-makers and the message is this: the directive of the '00s to have armies of blank, disposable, lookalike girls marching at the service of the campaigns, magazines and the runways is over. New decade, new ideal . . . the early booking reports on the FW 10 campaigns and editorials is registering is a taste for ultra-individual girl." He hints that the Givenchy Fall 2010 ads and a Vogue Italia editorial currently being lensed both support the new direction.

Meanwhile, in a follow-up to yesterday's news that Monika "Jac" Jagaciak's exclusive with Calvin Klein is now over, word is the brand now has an exclusive with Lara Stone — reportedly for CK collection, Jeans, and cosmetics — a choice that could also be seen as indicative of the move toward distinctive models.

>> Early Fall 2010 Campaign Buzz: Calvin Klein, Michael Kors to Switch It Up? —It's early on in the Fall 2010 campaign game, but a couple of interesting tidbits have already come to light.  It sounds like Monika "Jac" Jagaciak's campaign exclusive with Calvin Klein Collection — which produced their Fall 2009 and Spring 2010 campaigns — is no longer, so she may not only not be the CK face for Fall 2010, she might also pop up elsewhere. Meanwhile, Carmen Kass, who has appeared in every major Michael Kors campaign since Spring 2006 (with the exception of Fall 2007, which went to Tanya Dziahileva), didn't walk the Fall 2010 Kors catwalk, and now it sounds like there's a chance she won't be in the Kors campaign this season, either. [TFS, TFS]

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