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Cathy Horyn

Fashion in 50 Seconds 03/02/10 Lindsey Wixson's Fashion Week, Marni Designing Denim
Marni

Fashion in 50 Seconds 03/02/10 Lindsey Wixson's Fashion Week, Marni Designing Denim

Lindsey Wixson's fashion week in photos by Gabrielle Revere for Life.com.
by coutorture

Lindsey Wixson's fashion week in photos by Gabrielle Revere for Life.com.

Marni and Current/Elliott will be launching a co-branded line of denim later this year. “The product we did is not classic,” hinted Marni chief executive Gianni Castiglioni.

Kate Moss has signed on to star in a ballet film with Mikhail Baryshnikov that will be shown during a fund-raising event and as a gallery installation later this year. 

Cathy Horyn calls Milan Fashion Week "an eternity of bad clothes crammed into four days." Adding that "six years after Tom Ford bowed out at Gucci, Italian fashion hasn’t recovered its magic and energy yet."

Meanwhile buyers at the Milan shows were pleased with "solid collections, easing up on sex and flash to focus on heritage values and investment pieces."

Coco Rocha announced her engagement to boyfriend James Conran.

Source: Gabrielle Revere for Life.com

Marios Schwab Shows Off His First Outing at Halston for Fall 2010
Sarah Jessica Parker

Marios Schwab Shows Off His First Outing at Halston for Fall 2010

>> Last night, in a dimly-lit warehouse space in New York's Hell's Kitchen, Marios Schwab unveiled his first collection for Halston.  The house has had a rocky past since its namesake designer died in 1990, not excluding under the current management of Harvey Weinstein; in other words, the pressure was on for Fall 2010, with the feeling very do or die.
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>> Last night, in a dimly-lit warehouse space in New York's Hell's Kitchen, Marios Schwab unveiled his first collection for Halston.  The house has had a rocky past since its namesake designer died in 1990, not excluding under the current management of Harvey Weinstein; in other words, the pressure was on for Fall 2010, with the feeling very do or die.

The models stood, sat, or lounged in a mirrored set, full of linear and geometric shapes, showing off their largely monochrome looks in a variety of colors.  There was plenty of draping to go around, but also a bit of stiffness — one tan dress had a barely detectable pentagon shape coming out of its center. Marios, mingling with the crowd, explained that he was less interested in the Halston archives — he only used his memories of the pieces — and instead focused on the Halston idea of creating timeless pieces for strong women. He said of his Halston girl: "She is open minded. She is the daughter of the original Halston woman.”

Harvey Weinstein and newly-named Halston president and chief creative officer Sarah Jessica Parker, too, were on hand — the latter overheard saying when she arrived, “Excuse me, I have to meet Marios!”  before congratulating the designer.  Kate Young styled, and Schwab had London-based jeweler Jacqueline Rabun create silver accessories — including ear cuffs — in organic shapes remniscent of Elsa Peretti's work for the original Halston.

Puff-strapped sandals caught the eye of many, but on a whole, Cathy Horyn was still not convinced:

Marios Schwab, the latest designer at Halston, appeared to struggle in his first effort. A handful of fluid silk jersey dresses looked Halston-ish. But it was hard to see how his lineup of stiffly constructed dresses and twisted velvet chemises varied significantly from his own label in London. It’s not that Mr. Schwab has to adapt his style to the heritage of Halston. Who remembers exactly what that was, anyway? But the two sides need to stop fighting so much.

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Marc Jacobs on Fall 2010: "It's Not About Fashion, It's About Style"
Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs on Fall 2010: "It's Not About Fashion, It's About Style"

>> At 7:56 pm EST this evening, a booming male voice came over the loudspeakers at the Armory in New York, asking everyone to take their seats, the Marc Jacobs show was about to start.
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>> At 7:56 pm EST this evening, a booming male voice came over the loudspeakers at the Armory in New York, asking everyone to take their seats, the Marc Jacobs show was about to start. Meanwhile, the rest of the audience, via live.marcjacobs.com, had already taken their seats at home and were watching. The lights went down in the space, covered floor, wall, and ceiling with corrogated cardboard.  Then, a spotlight appeared on Marc as he and Robert Duffy walked across the room to tear down a floor to ceiling segment of brown paper, revealing all the models, standing in a giant wooden crate, behind.

Tatiana Cotliar opened the pared-back, neutral-dominated collection to the "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" soundtrack, which featured a mix of three different renditions of the song.  The 56-look collection was modeled by a cast who exited the box one at a time and included Marc by Marc Jacobs stylists Camille Bidault-Waddington and Suzanne Deeken, plus two girls who were pulled off the street; Jamie Bochert closed.

There was no finale procession, just Marc taking a bow in a Bottega Veneta suit; it really seems like Marc is ready for his show to be about the clothes again, something Robert Duffy suggested recently: no celebrities front row (just Crystal Renn — Andre Leon Talley was even left standing after coming late), a one song soundtrack, a brown paper set, very few recognizable models. Even the after-party is staff-only this year. "It's not about fashion, it's about style. That's why we used 'real' girls," he said post-show.

And people seem to be responding. "Beautiful show, wistful. Fab coats with glossy, shaggy fur. A-line skirts," Cathy Horyn remarked.  Paper's Kim Hastreiter wrote: "Marc Jacobs show was the most beautiful of his career IMO."

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Givenchy

>> Cathy Horyn On Why She Gives Riccardo Tisci a Hard Time, Dating Liz Claiborne's Widower Art Ortenberg — Cathy Horyn has been known to rail on Riccardo Tisci's work at Givenchy fairly consistently; in a recent interview with Style.com, she explains why: "What bothers me about Riccardo is he’s playing in the big leagues, but there’s a missing sophistication somehow.
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>> Cathy Horyn On Why She Gives Riccardo Tisci a Hard Time, Dating Liz Claiborne's Widower Art Ortenberg — Cathy Horyn has been known to rail on Riccardo Tisci's work at Givenchy fairly consistently; in a recent interview with Style.com, she explains why: "What bothers me about Riccardo is he’s playing in the big leagues, but there’s a missing sophistication somehow. It’s all so cool, and it’s all so indie magazine, but it doesn’t lead you. It leads you at that level but not at an extra-high level. And I think it could. I hope it does. I’m hard on him because I think he could be better."  Another fun Cathy-related tidbit, courtesy of yesterday's Daily: she has been dating Liz Claiborne's widower, millionaire Art Ortenberg, since last Feb. 4; they currently live together. [Style File, FWD (hard copy)]

Former Balenciaga Designer Josephus Thimister Makes A Return to Fashion After Eight Years
Suzy Menkes

Former Balenciaga Designer Josephus Thimister Makes A Return to Fashion After Eight Years

>> Josephus Thimister, Balenciaga's designer in the '90s, pre-Nicolas Ghesquiere, is back designing after an eight year hiatus from fashion.  The designer, who a decade ago was classed among then-up-and-comers like Hedi Slimane and Veronique Branquinho, lost commercial favor and designship at Balenciaga in 1997.
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>> Josephus Thimister, Balenciaga's designer in the '90s, pre-Nicolas Ghesquiere, is back designing after an eight year hiatus from fashion.  The designer, who a decade ago was classed among then-up-and-comers like Hedi Slimane and Veronique Branquinho, lost commercial favor and designship at Balenciaga in 1997.

Now poised for a comeback at 47, he "poured all [his] savings" into a collection inspired by "the military and Russian influence — 1915 was a time of bloodshed and opulence, and I’m convinced that all of today’s problems are the conclusion of that period."  And he was invited to help fill the hole in couture week left by Christian Lacroix.

Today, "like someone who has woken up from a nine-year-long beauty sleep," as he put it, Josephus showed that collection, which has been runway-ready since October. Suzy Menkes approved: "[Thimister] made a good job of this comeback because he used his cutting skills to make ... the clothes look convincing — as fashion, if not couture." As did Cathy Horyn: "Fascinating Thimister show, quite clear in military shapes and broken elegance."  But WWD, no so much: "The finale frocks . . . rang a little poor in terms of substance."  Does Thimister plan to continue? "One never knows," he told Horyn.

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Are Top Designers Shying Away From Awards Shows?
Louis Vuitton

Are Top Designers Shying Away From Awards Shows?

>> In the Golden Globes aftermath, Cathy Horyn was left less than impressed.
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>> In the Golden Globes aftermath, Cathy Horyn was left less than impressed. "The new decade certainly didn’t announce itself with a bang on the Globes red carpet last night, and it had nothing to do with the rain," she blogged yesterday. "Where was that single, game-changing dress that people would talk about?"

She continued:

Most of the dresses last night offered little more than a paper-doll variation on styles of the past few years. A preponderance of blush pink or one-shouldered styles doesn’t point to a trend so much as reveal an ongoing problem with mediocre design. Maybe the best designers now prefer to stay away from the awards shows, and the actresses, worried about bad publicity, don’t know the difference anymore. They don’t know what it means in fashion to be playful and truly relaxed. So the dresses keep wearing them.

Which designers had no Golden Globe dresses, and which had the most? »

Cathy Horyn

>> Cathy Horyn to Weigh In on Twitter During Upcoming Fashion Weeks —Suzy Menkes may carry her laptop around through Fashion Month, tapping out timely reviews from the front rows, but she has yet to transmit her thoughts via Twitter.
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>> Cathy Horyn to Weigh In on Twitter During Upcoming Fashion Weeks —Suzy Menkes may carry her laptop around through Fashion Month, tapping out timely reviews from the front rows, but she has yet to transmit her thoughts via Twitter. The same can no longer be said about Cathy Horyn, who in addition to her usual blogging and reviewing will be joining the Twitter brigrade. T's Horacio Silva announces: "In news that should send shivers down the backs of designers: Cathy Horyn is finally going to start tweeting this season." [@themoment]

Sophie Theallet On What She Plans to Do With Her Newfound CFDA/Vogue-Granted Funds
Oscar De La Renta

Sophie Theallet On What She Plans to Do With Her Newfound CFDA/Vogue-Granted Funds

>> Sophie Theallet, who took home the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize of $200,000 last month, sat down with Cathy Horyn to discuss what she plans to do with those new funds.Her experience designing knitwear for Jean Paul Gaultier and assisting Azzedine Alaia has spurred her: “I want to do some knits.”  She also wants to set up a showroom during the upcoming Paris Fashion Week to meet with international buyers.  Theallet isn't, however, looking to expand her line significantly or move into a larger workspace (she currently works out of the living room of her Brooklyn apartment).
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>> Sophie Theallet, who took home the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize of $200,000 last month, sat down with Cathy Horyn to discuss what she plans to do with those new funds.

Her experience designing knitwear for Jean Paul Gaultier and assisting Azzedine Alaia has spurred her: “I want to do some knits.”  She also wants to set up a showroom during the upcoming Paris Fashion Week to meet with international buyers.  Theallet isn't, however, looking to expand her line significantly or move into a larger workspace (she currently works out of the living room of her Brooklyn apartment).

As for the year-long mentorship she's awarded as part of her win, Theallet wants to work with Oscar de la Renta, because his company "focuses on craftsmanship [and] has a studio atmosphere similar to that found in Paris."

Alexander McQueen

>> Alexander McQueen is Dating a Porn Star He Met Online —According to Cathy Horyn's article in yesterday's Men's Fashion Fall 2009 issue of T, Alexander McQueen is seeing a porn star, who he met online.
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>> Alexander McQueen is Dating a Porn Star He Met Online —According to Cathy Horyn's article in yesterday's Men's Fashion Fall 2009 issue of T, Alexander McQueen is seeing a porn star, who he met online. Horyn writes: "'It's great! ' he cackles. [McQueen] told me the man's name but asked that I identify him only by his porn nom de famille, Mr. Stag." [T Magazine]

Ohne Titel Straddles Primitive Egyptian Modernity for Spring 2010
2010 Spring

Ohne Titel Straddles Primitive Egyptian Modernity for Spring 2010

>> Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill told Fashionista backstage that their Spring 2010 collection was their strongest yet, and they weren't kidding.
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>> Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill told Fashionista backstage that their Spring 2010 collection was their strongest yet, and they weren't kidding. Inspired by "the graphic lines, lush textures, and bold colors in Egyptian reliefs and sculptures," according to their show notes, Adams and Gill adapted their signature tailoring and body-con sensibilities to span an oxymoronic look of primitive modernity.  They elaborated to The Cut: "We looked at a lot of wall painting and sculptures, and so we’re kind of playing with taking those same kind of proportions and applying them on the body."

Lace-up heels, flats, and thigh-high boots done in collaboration with Cesare Paciotti are sure to have the shoehounds drooling, and the prevalent texture in the collection — including patches of multicolored hand embroidery — was exquisite. Alastair McKimm, who worked with Alexander Wang the last two seasons, styled, and both Cathy Horyn and Visionaire's Cecilia Dean appeared front row.

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