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Cathy Horyn

RM by Roland Mouret Fall 2009: "The Work of a Local Dressmaker"
Roland Mouret

RM by Roland Mouret Fall 2009: "The Work of a Local Dressmaker"

>> For the first time since launching his RM line, Roland Mouret showed during Paris Fashion Week; until now, he's debuted collections during couture season.  It was perfect time to make the move, considering that his trademark tailored origami dresses are right on par with the sober chic mood of many other designers for Fall 2009 — "quietly seductive," as Cathy Horyn described them.
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RM by Roland Mouret Fall 2009: "The Work of a Local Dressmaker"

>> For the first time since launching his RM line, Roland Mouret showed during Paris Fashion Week; until now, he's debuted collections during couture season.  It was perfect time to make the move, considering that his trademark tailored origami dresses are right on par with the sober chic mood of many other designers for Fall 2009 — "quietly seductive," as Cathy Horyn described them. "Almost the work of a local dressmaker. That’s not a criticism."  Another first for the designer: knitwear, embossed like crocodile, above a skirt or over leggings. The venue was warm, causing guests to fan themselves with programs and invites, but these are just the type of dresses that buyers are looking for come Fall, so a little discomfort was surely worth it.
*image: source

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Shopping

Quote Of The Days: Cathy Horyn Talks Balenciaga Prices

Those draped satin pants at Balenciaga that everyone’s been talking about, with a cummerbund waist, are, as you might imagine, expensive: about $8,000.
by coutorture Those draped satin pants at Balenciaga that everyone’s been talking about, with a cummerbund waist, are, as you might imagine, expensive: about $8,000. But in the showroom, which was chocked this morning with buyers (including the Barneys team), I saw a commercial style in black wool that I liked almost as much. They’re sort of full and soft at the top and then narrow and become snug below the knees: about $950. Some of the draped skirts and skimmy print dresses from the commercial line also looked pretty good, I thought. If you want one of the beaded “tweed” tops that opened the Balenciaga show, with the satin draped skirts, the long-sleeve tops will set you back $50,000.
Balenciaga

>> INSIDER WIRE —Recession schmecession.  Cathy Horyn has a list of some of her Fall 2009 Paris favorites, along with their prices — those thigh-high Stella McCartney boots, for instance, will run $1,145-$1,635.  As for the opening beaded tops that were paired with draped satin skirts at Balenciaga?  The long-sleeve versions will be .
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Recession schmecession.  Cathy Horyn has a list of some of her Fall 2009 Paris favorites, along with their prices — those thigh-high Stella McCartney boots, for instance, will run $1,145-$1,635.  As for the opening beaded tops that were paired with draped satin skirts at Balenciaga?  The long-sleeve versions will be . . . wait for it . . . $50,000.  And they say Balmain is pricey. [On the Runway]

*image: source

martin margiela

>> INSIDER WIRE —There's been confusion a number of months about whether Martin Margiela has withdrawn from his brand, and even though Margiela execs assure he's still in place, after last week's collection, critics seem convinced he's not.  As Cathy Horyn put it, "Just about everything at the show tonight — the hokey starlight projections on the ceiling, the empty design techniques, the use of beautiful young models instead of older, interesting-looking chicks — said that Mr. Margiela is no longer involved in his label, as editors have speculated for some time."  WWD agreed: "Where in the world is Martin Margiela?
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>> INSIDER WIRE —There's been confusion a number of months about whether Martin Margiela has withdrawn from his brand, and even though Margiela execs assure he's still in place, after last week's collection, critics seem convinced he's not.  As Cathy Horyn put it, "Just about everything at the show tonight — the hokey starlight projections on the ceiling, the empty design techniques, the use of beautiful young models instead of older, interesting-looking chicks — said that Mr. Margiela is no longer involved in his label, as editors have speculated for some time."  WWD agreed: "Where in the world is Martin Margiela? Judging from the house’s fall collection, the designer has finally left the building."  And Suzy Menkes implored a fix, fast: "Of Margiela's rigorous exploration of a personal vision, there is no sign and Renzo Rosso, chief executive of the 'Only the Brave' company that owns his Diesel empire, needs to do something fast." [NYT, WWD, IHT]
*image: source

quote

Quote Of The Day: What Fashion Folk Do In Paris Between Haider Ackermann And Ann Demeulemeester

When I returned to the [Dries Van Noten] shop, it was filled with editors.
by coutorture When I returned to the [Dries Van Noten] shop, it was filled with editors. Suzy Menkes was there. Sarah Mower. Virginie Mouzat of Le Figaro, and maybe eight or nine other writers trying on clothes and shoes. I bought a black cotton skirt with a cuffed hem. Around 2 p.m., I went to the Café Castiglione to meet my friend Tim Blanks for lunch. Some Vogue editors filed in, followed by the crew from Saks, and the folks from Browns in London. At one point Tim and I looked up, and through the window we saw an impossibly cool group of young people in big jackets and leggings. It was Alexander Wang and his posse. Somehow, on Rue Saint Honore, they looked overdressed.
Frida Giannini's Gucci Approach Still Polarizing Fashion, Earning Bebe Comparisons
Gucci

Frida Giannini's Gucci Approach Still Polarizing Fashion, Earning Bebe Comparisons

>> Frida Giannini's runway-clothes-as-merchandise concept for Gucci may be selling well, but it's still not sitting well with critics.  Last season, her collection was likened to Zara, and this season her Fall 2009 collection earned another mall-brand comparison: Bebe.
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>> Frida Giannini's runway-clothes-as-merchandise concept for Gucci may be selling well, but it's still not sitting well with critics.  Last season, her collection was likened to Zara, and this season her Fall 2009 collection earned another mall-brand comparison: Bebe.

Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes, neither of whom are afraid to be blunt, seemed indifferent to criticizing the collection — both just focused on Frida's decision to channel sex.  But Christina Binkley of The Wall Street Journal got more pointed, going so far to ask "Who is the Gucci woman?": "[Frida] seems to develop a startling new personality each season, leaving last season’s clothes lost in relation to the new collection. Last season, she was globetrotting with flower children. This season, she’s shaking it in sequined leggings and a sparkling tunic at Studio 54."

"Gucci continues to look like Bebe with a bigger budget" »

Oscar De La Renta

>> INSIDER WIRE —Sure, Oscar de la Renta's son Moises may be debuting his own line, MDLR, this season — but he has a long way to go if he aims to be the heir to his father's design house.  Oscar isn't planning on retiring anytime soon, but right now, he told Cathy Horyn he thinks his son-in-law and CEO of the company, Alex Bolen, may be the best person to succeed him — he's "the one person who challenges me all the time."
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Sure, Oscar de la Renta's son Moises may be debuting his own line, MDLR, this season — but he has a long way to go if he aims to be the heir to his father's design house.  Oscar isn't planning on retiring anytime soon, but right now, he told Cathy Horyn he thinks his son-in-law and CEO of the company, Alex Bolen, may be the best person to succeed him — he's "the one person who challenges me all the time." [Style File, T Magazine]

Fashion In 50 Seconds 02/19/09 "The Model As Muse" & More
Models

Fashion In 50 Seconds 02/19/09 "The Model As Muse" & More

The next Costume Institute exhibition will be entitled "Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion", the Gala will be hosted by Kate Moss and Marc Jacobs.
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The next Costume Institute exhibition will be entitled "Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion", the Gala will be hosted by Kate Moss and Marc Jacobs.

Could that explain why the Fall 2009 catwalks were filled with over-thirty models, some of whom haven't walked in years? 

Milliner, Molly Yestadt, whom we featured in our Put A Lid On It shoot, is interviewed on the hats she designed for the Marc by Marc Jacobs show. 

Cathy Horyn loved the Michael Kors show, Style.com loved the Michael Kors show, and The International Herald Tribune interviewed the designer about the recession.  

Narciso Rodriguez Brings Fall 2009's Neon Back to the '00s
Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Brings Fall 2009's Neon Back to the '00s

>> This evening, Narciso Rodriguez took the neon nuances of Marc Jacobs's Fall 2009 collection — which Cathy Horyn called "hard to like" — and did with them something Marc did not: made them modern.  In fact, Narciso's best pieces were the neon ones: the highlighter yellow body-conscious dress worn by Natasha Poly will be fought over; the loose citrine dress with snap sleeves donned by Stephanie Carta and Ali Stephens's lace-overlayed pink highlighter minidress are also strong contenders.  The camouflage pieces could be done without — except for Sessilee Lopez's pants; but more standouts — Liu Wen's polished silk top and wool pant, Diana Farkhullina's rich blue-purple dress, and Raquel Zimmerman's chic white frock more than make up for them.  Perhaps even more amazing these days — Narciso's show was fully self-funded, and yet, it still felt like a true show — the bass was so loud, it reverberated in our seats, causing the Financial Times's Vanessa Friedman to bob her head along in approval.*image: source
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Narciso Rodriguez Brings Fall 2009's Neon Back to the '00s

>> This evening, Narciso Rodriguez took the neon nuances of Marc Jacobs's Fall 2009 collection — which Cathy Horyn called "hard to like" — and did with them something Marc did not: made them modern.  In fact, Narciso's best pieces were the neon ones: the highlighter yellow body-conscious dress worn by Natasha Poly will be fought over; the loose citrine dress with snap sleeves donned by Stephanie Carta and Ali Stephens's lace-overlayed pink highlighter minidress are also strong contenders.  The camouflage pieces could be done without — except for Sessilee Lopez's pants; but more standouts — Liu Wen's polished silk top and wool pant, Diana Farkhullina's rich blue-purple dress, and Raquel Zimmerman's chic white frock more than make up for them.  Perhaps even more amazing these days — Narciso's show was fully self-funded, and yet, it still felt like a true show — the bass was so loud, it reverberated in our seats, causing the Financial Times's Vanessa Friedman to bob her head along in approval.
*image: source

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