Cathy Horyn

>> If Alexander Wang is becoming the heir apparent to Marc Jacobs's downtown cool, on the polar opposite spectrum, Jason Wu is drawing comparisons to Oscar de la Renta — logical, since he seems to have taken over from de la Renta as dresser of the First Lady.

Commenting on the subject after Wu showed his Fall 2009 collection, both Los Angeles Times — "It's easy to see why Wu has been compared to Oscar de la Renta. The superb workmanship on his clothes is evident, which is wise in this economy"; and Cathy Horyn of the New York Times — "Without exactly duplicating the look of Oscar de la Renta, his clothes make you think of that style. This is not a negative quality; Mr. Wu’s designs seem reality-tested." [LA Times, NY Times]
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Pheobe Philo, former genius behind Chloe, sits down to discuss her first collections for Celine, starting with Resort which will debut in April...

Model Heather Marks logs her pre-Fashion Week diet for New York Magazine which is, not surprisingly, lacking in carbs. 

Dolce & Gabbana will play priests in a film called Nine, alongside cast members Daniel Day Lewis, Nicole Kidman, Marion Cotillard, Kate Hudson, Sofia Loren, and Penelope Cruz. 

Cathy Horyn likens the New York Fashion Week roster to a trade show lineup and provides a prescription for better Lincoln Center arrangements come September. 

>> Damrosch Park is the place of Fashion Week's future — for the next five years starting in 2010, anyway.  Although she hasn't been thrilled about the location in the past, Anna Wintour seems to have come around: "We had obviously worn out our welcome at Bryant Park, so it’s very exciting to be going to someplace where they want us.”  But how is everyone else seem to be taking the news?

Like Anna, editors are generally satisfied with the move — Glenda Bailey, editor of Harper’s Bazaar, too seemed excited.  “How great that fashion is going to take center stage at Lincoln Center. It is where art meets culture . . . meets cabs.”  Cathy Horyn suggested "a separate space for small or new designers — not unlike the set-up in London and Paris — to present their things during Fashion Week, rather than each of them staging a costly runway show."

Designers, on the other hand, are more reticent about the move, especially since it takes them farther away from the Garment District.

"I hate the idea." »

>> INSIDER WIRE —Chanel's Spring 2009 couture collection doesn't debut until tomorrow morning, but Cathy Horyn went by the atelier and has a few hints about what we can expect to see.  Freja Beha Erichsen has been chosen as the couture bride, and will wear a pants ensemble with white paper headdress and a train "that swept across half the studio floor."  Everything in the collection is white, or black and white, and centers around Karl Lagerfeld's favorite thing — paper (even though he apparently had a Kindle on his desk). The silhouette is "as modern as can be — short and trim — with a sharpness to the lines that evokes cut paper."  And the girls will be decorated with flowers, hair ornaments, and little caps, all made out of paper. [On the Runway]
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Cathy Horyn, curmudgeon or awesome? The New York Times fashion critic showed up to Calvin Klein's 40th anniversary party last night — which had a cocktail attire code — wearing jean shorts. So far, she hasn't had any invites rescinded this season, so it looks like she's playing rebel in other ways . . . [FWD (hard copy)]