Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012

Christian Dior

Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012

Raf Simons set the scene for his Couture collection with wall-to-wall flowers in a private home on the Avenue d’Iena in Paris — lovely as they were, they still played second fiddle to the craftsmanship of his Dior debut.
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012

Raf Simons set the scene for his Couture collection with wall-to-wall flowers in a private home on the Avenue d’Iena in Paris — lovely as they were, they still played second fiddle to the craftsmanship of his Dior debut. In perfect balance, Raf celebrated both the fashion legacy at Dior, while staking out a claim for his own. He married the history of the house's '40s aesthetic with re-creations of Dior's archival patterns sewn into the backs of his ornately embroidered dresses, but the skillful tailoring told a much more contemporary story. Slim trousers, topped with fit-and-flare dresses and peplum trim were part of Raf's own modern narrative, as were the full, voluminous gowns topped with sheer, t-shirt like tops. Right down to the pointed-toe pumps, red lips, and pearls, Raf honed in on our favorite parts of ladylike dressing without building caricatures, thanks to proportions, functionality in evening wear, and trends that play to today's woman and her point of view. For Raf, vintage Dior was the jumping off point — but it wasn't the full story.

  • Trends: Menswear, peplum, cinched waists, outerwear as evening wear, dresses over pants
  • Colors: White, navy, black, petal pink; a splash of canary yellow, red, and fuchsia
  • Key piece: Ladylike coats, cinched at the waist and worn as dresses; fit-and-flare dresses over slim-cut pants
  • Accessories: Classic, pointed-toe pumps, wide metallic belts, pearl-encrusted chokers and cuffs; ladylike gloves
  • Who would wear it: Demure, classic beauties like Natalie Portman and Michelle Williams; we'd love to see Diane Kruger in the full-skirted, blue-floral print gown.
Dior

The Scene at Raf Simons's Dior Couture Debut

Designers, editors, socialites, and royalty were among those who watched Raf Simons's debut couture show for Christian Dior at a flower-filled Paris mansion Monday.
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012 Front Row

Designers, editors, socialites, and royalty were among those who watched Raf Simons's debut couture show for Christian Dior at a flower-filled Paris mansion Monday. The high turnout seems almost as significant as the garments themselves: Cathy Horyn noted that having such a large number of fellow designers in attendance — the group included legends Pierre Cardin, Azzedine Alaia, Diane von Furstenberg, Alber Elbaz, Riccardo Tisci, Donatella Versace, Marc Jacobs, and Simons's Dior Homme counterpart Kris Van Assche — was "surely a first in fashion."

Anna Wintour and Hamish Bowles were also at the show — Wendi Murdoch sat between them — and so were fellow editors Grace Coddington, Glenda Bailey, Alexandra Shulman, Stefano Tonchi, and Edward Enninful. Emanuelle Alt said she hadn't "been this excited to see a show in a long time. Today I'm going to see something I've never seen before." When Derek Blasberg saw Marion Cotillard, Stella Tennant, and Charlotte Rampling arrive at the show, he observed, "Raf is one popular boy!"

Popular indeed. Bernard Arnault, who owns Christian Dior, attended the show with his daughter Delphine — sat next to Princess Charlene of Monaco — his son Antoine, and Antoine's girlfriend Natalia Vodianova.

Despite favorable reviews and warm accolades in general, the applause at the end of the show was described by some as "lackluster." Simons himself may not have noticed — the designer "only waved for a second and left."

Dior

Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012

A series of rooms filled with an abundance of flowers set the stage for Raf Simons's thoroughly modern couture debut at Christian Dior.
Dior Couture Fall 2012 Collection

A series of rooms filled with an abundance of flowers set the stage for Raf Simons's thoroughly modern couture debut at Christian Dior. But even though the blooms, arranged by color across five salons, were mesmerizing — Anna Wintour was overheard saying to Grace Coddington, "Isn't this amazing? A million flowers." — their beauty didn't distract from the glory of the show.

With respectful nods to the house's past, Simons created a collection that interpreted Christian Dior's 1947 design aesthetic for women living in 2012. Some said the collection represented a New New Look, and with its generous peplums and updated versions of wasp-waisted dresses and balloon-skirted gowns, this collection certainly belongs to that tradition.

The backs of some dresses were covered in reproductions of Dior's archival embroidery patterns, while the fronts were decorated with Simons's version of the same embellishments. Pastel feathers were used in the embroidery work to inject the house's signature colors into the offering. Cathy Horyn tweeted a picture of the house's classic bar jacket, which was treated with black beads that looked like caviar and paired with cigarette pants. The garments that were left unadorned — like a slim strapless cocktail dress in pale pink — displayed subtle details like gentle pleating. Derek Blasberg proclaimed that "in the last 13 minutes, Raf Simons just single-handedly altered the contemporary haute couture landscape."

Other important faces in the industry, including Alber Elbaz, Pierre Cardin, Stefano Tonchi, Franca Sozzani, Marc Jacobs, Donatella Versace, and Azzedine Alaia, attended the show. Diane von Furstenberg said the offering was "superb" and exclaimed "another talented Belgian!" Nina Garcia, meanwhile, said Simons's show was "beautiful, perfect, and simple." And it was.