>> Just yesterday, it was reported that Alber Elbaz is under contract at Lanvin and not currently interested in leaving, but last night, Style.com tweeted, "Not to add to the Dior rumor mill, but people in Paris are asking, why has the Lanvin team been in tears all day?" And if Elbaz is leaving for Dior, does that mean Jason Wu might be in at Lanvin? WWD did report: "The sighting of Jason Wu front row at the Lanvin show on Friday sure sent tongues a-wagging. 'I’m here for my first Lanvin show, Mrs. Wang invited me,' said the designer, referring to the house’s owner, Taiwanese publishing magnate Shaw-Lan Wang." [@styledotcom, WWD]
>> Dior CEO Sidney Toledano was at the John Galliano presentation yesterday — "the clearest signal that Dior hasn’t given up on Galliano — at least not yet," the Wall Street Journal noted. "For the moment, the [Galliano] business continues," Toledano confirmed. "This is a business which has licenses and tomorrow we will show the collection in the showrooms as usual . . . I am here to prove that business goes on . . . and to support the teams." Without Galliano the designer, however, it's not clear how long Dior's commitment will last; and the label, which barely breaks even, would not survive without Dior, which owns a 92 percent stake in the brand. [WSJ, Reuters]
>> Yesterday, Riccardo Tisci addressed the rumors of his designing for Dior, and now another rumored contender — Haider Ackermann, who apparently has received overtures from LVMH — has spoken on the possibility: "Yeah, there are places that I would like to go [design for], but it's just a question of . . . it's like a love affair, you just have to meet the right person, look together in the same direction. But, you know, you have a repertoire of your own, and sometimes, [you're] thinking you would like something else to express, and the code of another house might help. I don't know . . . we'll see, we'll see."
Alber Elbaz is also said to be under consideration, but WWD points out: "Elbaz remains under contract to Lanvin. He’s believed to have equity, and is said to be, for the moment, at least, not interested in leaving."
>> Riccardo Tisci has been fingered as a favorite by many to be the next Dior designer, and this morning, Fashionista reported that sources inside Dior are saying that Tisci "is most definitely in," with Tisci's friend Carine Roitfeld serving as the label's stylist. But Tisci himself said last night of the Dior rumors: "I felt this was a strong, positive season. And I'm happy at Givenchy." [Style.com]
"As the daughter of a Holocaust survivor," Diane von Furstenberg said on today's Gayle King Show, "I find what he said was absolutely unacceptable. Having said that, I think he was provoked and he was clearly not in a normal state." When asked what she thought about Dior firing Galliano, she replied: "That's not for me to say. I mean, it is an unacceptable comment."
And backstage after his show Saturday, Jean Paul Gaultier said: "It's sad, because he was an enormous talent. Everything he has done has not revealed someone who is racist — quite to the contrary. With recordings, people can be made to say things that they did not say. They pronounce some words, but what is the context? The person [speaking to Galliano in the video] seems very assured, knowing very well what she is doing." He added that he hoped Galliano would return to fashion and "find an inner peace."
The house of Christian Dior has experienced a great upheaval since it fired John Galliano for making anti-Semitic remarks, but the show went on earlier today to a subdued crowd of attendees. And the mood continued in the collection, which was devoid of Galliano's trademark dramatic theatrics in makeup and design. Instead, the house showed a more tailored and elegant collection composed of tweed skirts, velvet trousers, decadent fur coats, and jacquard knickers, along with floor-sweeping capes and coats. However, it was the eveningwear that caught our attention: muted pastel-hued ruffled dresses appeared evoking a soft ethereal feel, and for the more dramatic, the brand created sheer lace gowns paired with streamlined blazers.
- Trends: Boudoir-inspired gowns, tweed suiting, jacquard prints, ruffle embellishments.
- Colors: Olive, blue, mustard, dark red, pale pink, light blue.
- Key Looks: Dark red velvet and chiffon dress, sheer lace gown and blazer.
- Accessories: Lace-up ankle and over-the-knee boots, floppy felt hats, fur stoles.
- Who Would Wear It: Women looking to add drama to their look.
>> Typically, Cathy Horyn writes, "a Dior show would be an occasion for a mob scene at the front gates, celebrities filling front-row seats, and the arrival of Bernard Arnault." But today, not so: there were no big name celebrities (just Anna Wintour, Emmanuelle Alt, Mario Testino, and Natalia Vodianova instead); there was no Arnault — "owing to the tug of other business obligations," WWD reports — and the mob scene outside was bigger than usual: "I would say more than 300 people were there, along with extra French police officers," Horyn noted. Security was up in all regards — guest invitations were checked multiple times on the way in, and photographers weren't allowed backstage or front row access.
There was no lack in attendance, however: Dior's PR described the demand for invitations as "overwhelming." But the mood at the show "was sombre and muted, with more than one guest suggesting the atmosphere was 'funereal,'" Hilary Alexander reports, "something heightened by the black ribbons which tied the name tags to each attendees' black chair; the black carpet; and the plaintive strains of Chopin and Debussy which echoed through the tent, pre-show."
"What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal for us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be.
"Such statements are intolerable because of our collective duty to never forget the Holocaust and its victims, and because of the respect for human dignity that is owed to each person and to all peoples.
"These statements have deeply shocked and saddened all at Dior who give body and soul to their work, and it is particularly painful that they came from someone so admired for his remarkable creative talent. So now, more than ever, we must publicly re-commit ourselves to the values of the House of Dior.
" . . . The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the value and the vision of Monsieur Dior. What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative, and marvelous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people."
Dior face Karlie Kloss opened the show as usual, but with John Galliano gone, Suzy Menkes writes, "The creative partners who supported Mr. Galliano over the years hardly had a look in: the milliner Stephen Jones had only a sprinkling of sensible felt hats and the makeup artist Pat McGrath created none of her dramatis personae. No stage set created a dramatic backdrop. Gone too were the outré accessories. Just a cameo at the throat was the main embellishment, although there was the usual complement of frills, bows and feminine prettiness."
Arnault's daughter, Delphine, who is deputy managing director at Dior, apparently wiped away tears at the end of the show, when the entire 30-person Dior atelier team took the runway in white coats to a standing applause. And Joe Zee tweeted, "The end of the show was an immensely touching fashion moment for me."
>> There's been plenty a rumor about who might succeed John Galliano at Christian Dior, and in the video above, insiders give their two cents on who they think will take the role. While the Vogue contingent won't comment, Fabien Baron suggests Riccardo Tisci or Haider Ackermann, Stefano Tonchi offers up Peter Dundas's name, and Cathy Horyn opines, "People talk about Riccardo Tisci, [but he's] too gloomy for Dior," saying she'd instead like to see Tom Ford, Raf Simons, or Alber Elbaz.
Despite all the speculation, Dior is apparently in no hurry to name a successor; it's also not legally able, under French employment regulations, to do so until the process to terminate Galliano — which can take several weeks — has been completed. “There won’t be any choice for quite a while,” according to one source familiar with LVMH. “They’re receiving offers.”
Among the candidates Bernard Arnault's advisers have been pitching, according to WWD sources: Haider Ackermann, Hedi Slimane and Riccardo Tisci. Delphine Arnault, deputy managing director at Dior and Bernard Arnault's daughter, is said to be partial to Tisci. And overtures were apparently recently made to Ackermann as a possible candidate for Dior, or to succeed Tisci at Givenchy if he moves to Dior.
In an epic battle of good vs. evil . . . just kidding. Blake Lively and Diane Kruger were both spotted in ethereal, appliqued Chanel dresses that called to mind the ballet costumes of Oscar-nominated flick Black Swan. Blake looks innocent and floaty in her white metallic dress, complete with silk chiffon floral applique, decadent Lorraine Schwartz jewels and ballet-inspired Christian Louboutin pumps. Diane went for dark beauty in her floaty layers of black tulle embroidered with spindly gold. Which Chanel-clothed swan do you love?
Rumor — Riccardo Tisci to Replace Galliano at Dior, Haider Ackermann to Givenchy, and Hedi Slimane to Yves Saint Laurent
>> Riccardo Tisci is regarded as a favorite to succeed John Galliano at Dior — he already works for LVMH at Givenchy, and as a source told Racked, "Givenchy is a training ground for Dior, just like for Galliano in the '90s" (Galliano was creative director at Givenchy before joining Dior in 1996).
Now, Fashionista reports: "The latest gossip [at Paris Fashion Week] goes something like this: Riccardo Tisci will indeed replace Galliano at Christian Dior, Haider Ackermann will slip into Tisci’s spot at Givenchy, and despite YSL’s vehement denial otherwise, Hedi Slimane is about to take over for Stefano Pilati. Oh, and yes, Carine Roitfeld is coming along for the ride."
Vogue UK heard similarly regarding Pilati and Saint Laurent: "Fashion insiders close to the action in Paris suggest that a major fashion reshuffle could be set in to motion in the coming week — and may be sparked by the rumoured appointment of Hedi Slimane and Carine Roitfeld as the new creative team at the helm of YSL. Nothing has been confirmed by the brand, but our sources suggest that — despite YSL protestations to the contrary — Pilati may be replaced."