Spain's Golden Age inspired the painterly strokes of pattern and embroidery in Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos's Fall 2013 collection. The offering, while perhaps a little darker in mood than the duo has shown in the past, was filled with no shortage of the lurid shades and pattern mixing that made the label famous. Boxy, masculine coats in red, mustard, and lavender were decorated with coordinating splotches of color, while cowhide jackets were stitched together with crisscrossing white cords. The sculptural shoulders and texture-laden knits were eye-catching, but perhaps the most visually striking pieces were the wildly printed puffer jackets.
Peter Pilotto's Spring 2013 collection was nothing short of a sensory overload — in the best way possible. Designing duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos held nothing back as they sent down models decked out in bold, digitized prints splashed on an array of peplum-infused tops and jackets, skinny trousers, and cutout dresses. If you look closely, you can see that not only was it about the print-on-print-on-print, Pilotto and De Vos injected even more dimension into their looks with textural beaded embroidery, as seen on a magnificent black-and-blue embellished fit-and-flare gown. Silhouettes were also dramatic, some showing high-slit hemlines, others highlighting the popular pouf sleeve we've been spotting in many Spring '13 collections. Also of note were the amazing, psychedelic-printed lace-up Nicholas Kirkwood sandals that finished off every look. For Pilotto and De Vos, it was modern eccentric glamour at its best — and we loved every bit of it.
- Trends: Peplums, digital prints, embellishments, flared sleeves.
- Colors: Red, blue, lime green, white, yellow, black, green.
- Key Piece: We can't wait to see the blue-and-black embroidered flared dress on the red carpet.
- Accessories: Embellished, multicolored lace-up sandals made in collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood.
- Who Should Wear It: Who revels in bold silhouettes and prints? Red carpet A-listers like Emma Watson and Kate Bosworth.
All the cool kids in London are showing prints, so Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos took the digital imagery they apply to their feminine skirts and dresses one step further and folded them into highly sculptural peplums and other shapes. On their own, the prints the design duo used in their Spring 2013 collection would have been enough to catch the eye, but architectural takes on the peplum brought stripes of black, white, and light blue to life at the end of a jacket, and the flounce on the bottom of a green and red skirt added movement. There was beading, too, which looked its best in a black and blue dress held together in front by a black bandeau.
Lapo Cianchi, chairman of the influential seasonal Pitti trade shows, said his team invited the design duo because they "were looking for a modern approach to feminine elegance that is constant, profound and has the ability to think about itself. We saw this in the evolution of their collections, a knowledgeable process that develops around surprising colors, body-conscious draping and light sculpting. It was also interesting to see how the designers' two distinct spirits come together and reinterpret fashion's classic elements."
Pilotto and De Vos met as students at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts and started Peter Pilotto together in 2008. In 2009, the two won the British Fashion Council's Emerging Talent Award, and since then its collections have gotten favorable reviews. In the past, Pitti W has selected Diane von Furstenberg, Gareth Pugh, Haider Ackermann, and Proenza Schouler as guest designers.
Pitti W runs in conjunction with its menswear counterpart Pitti Uomo from June 19 to 22.
Photo: A look from Peter Pilotto's Fall 2012 collection.
>> For Fall, Peter Pilotto has joined forces with sporty Belgian bag brand Kipling. The product? A capsule line of eleven bags and five accessories — all in the label's signature galaxy and machine digital prints. The collection, which runs $26 to $98, will be at Kipling outlets and online beginning the third week of September. And Kipling has confirmed that Pilotto and his design partner Christopher De Vos are already working together on a followup Spring 2011 collection.
London based footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood is partnering with Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos on a capsule collection of fall shoes. The lineup of two styles will make their debut at the Peter Pilotto spring runway show during London Fashion Week this September. Kirkwood has been creating footwear for Peter Pilotto for two seasons, but this marks the first collection that will go into production. Kirkwood has also worked with Rodarte and Erdem on recent shoe collections.
>> In the space behind a record store in London this morning, Anna Wintour stopped by for a preview, and Peter Pilotto and design partner Christopher De Vos sent out their trademark watercolor prints atop sculptured and draped minidresses. The collection inspired quite the impulse gushing from Another Magazine ("Peter Pilotto — show of the week so far."), Vogue UK ("The Pilotto show has been one of our FAVOURITE shows yet") and Los Angeles Times's Booth Moore ("Peter Pilotto is next big thing out of London."). Wintour's bouncers were so energized by the show, they apparently almost knocked Suzy Menkes over as they rushed Anna out.