"Bare-feet attitude of nonchalance, charm, and sport" and "fresh, salty with a glow" were just two of the Resort notes supplied by Chloé designer Clare Waight Keller. Of course, one look at the collection is enough to surmise the same. The collection's focus was split between two overarching themes: fluid tailoring and a more feminine take on the label's signature sportif aesthetic. Katharine Hepburn-style wide-leg pants, rounded coat edges, and collarless blouses served as evidence to the former, while the noticeable abundance of white guipure lace, multicolored candy stripes, and pretty embroidered details certainly pointed to the latter. The accessories — including the C bags (Clare, Charlotte, and Carey), loose gold chains, neoprene boots, and T-strap wedges — bridged the gap between the two themes, and if nothing else, maintained the beautiful, laid-back vision of Waight Keller's Resort collection.
Clare Waight Keller's show notes for Chloé's Fall 2013 collection described a myriad of inspirations: night buses, independent spirit, bare legs, bike sheds, flirting, cold nights, and tough girls. How all that translates to the actual pieces on the runway is anyone's guess, but that doesn't really matter. These were great clothes.
The clouds parted for the Chloé Fall 2013 show. With sunlight streaming in through the glass roof of the tent at the Tuileries in Paris, Clare Waight Keller showed a lineup of softly romantic clothes with a sharp tailoring edge, which is precisely what cool girls around the world want from Chloé. The house's famed bags took on a softer feel with slouchy dual-handle duffels and slim shoulder bags, while every look came out with solid-heeled oxfords. The outerwear was a highlight, with narrow-shoulder coats and wearable capes popped over white blouses and A-line skirts. Click through to see the full collection.
This year marks 60 years for Chloé, but the French house is still as flirty and free-spirited as it was when Gaby Aghion founded it. The collection was shown under a big, airy white tent with an open roof so we could see the sunshine through the trees of the Tuileries above. It was the perfect setting for a collection that was all about volume, not the heavy, structured kind that weighs you down (or makes your hair stand up) but the kind of volume that makes clothes float and swish. Designer Clare Waight-Keller employed sheer fabrics, mesh, tulle, and big ruffles to make that point and cut slouchy, oversize shorts and pants that won't look great on anyone but will look fantastic on the right person. The ruffles — oversize ones adorning sleeves and hems — didn't feel too girlie because the silhouettes were kept minimal and clean. The color palette helped too — the show opened with all white before introducing ochre, peach, navy, and earthy neutrals. Even the girliest indulgence — floral appliqué on a short swingy skirt and down one leg of a pair of oversize pants — felt cool rather than overwrought. Those who love accessories will adore the metallic ankle-strap heels, which are a sure must have for next Spring, and the newest Amelia bag with beautiful contrasting trim and deco-inspired resin detailing.
With the glass ceiling of the big tent open to the Tuileries sky and the house packed right up to the rafters with the likes of Rachel Zoe, Giovanna Battaglia, and Bryan Boy, the atmosphere at the Chloé Spring 2013 show couldn't have been more upbeat. There was certainly plenty to celebrate: Not only does this year mark the 60th anniversary of the brand, but the collection that Claire Waight Keller sent down the runway was so lovely and fresh it can now be counted among one of her best.
Volume, ruffles, and light-as-air fabrics were the focus, but in a clean palette of white, black, apricot, ochre, and navy, the overall result was crisp rather than overwhelming. Tiered dresses in organza and tulle were sculpted into rounded shapes with curved hems, while oversized trousers and full bermuda shorts in tussah silk were controlled with artful pleating around the waist and hips. A sprinkling of flower cutouts — which decorated one full leg on a pair of pants as well as the front of a folded bubble mini skirt — added texture and whimsy, and the final series of ruffled dresses looked modern but utterly ethereal.
Clare Waight Keller's Spring 2013 collection for See by Chloé focuses on helping city dwellers meet the challenges of the season with a relaxed and casual ease. A concentration on movement means the offering is light, airy, and for the most part free of decoration. Suit separates cinched at the waist with loose bows created flatteringly long lines, while oversize quilted cotton jackets offered a cocoon of warmth from early Spring's chilly winds. A hooded lamb's leather jacket, chunky cotton sweaters, and a few thin toppers in technical nylon were also useful shields against the elements — but the collection wasn't all utilitarian. Even city girls need flirty cocktail dresses, and Keller answered that call with brightly colored silk georgette frocks that flutter in the breeze.
Photo courtesy of See by Chloé.
Relaxed luxury defined Clare Waight Keller's Resort 2013 collection for Chloé. Keller took her cues from '70s scarves, which not only led her to create the stylized purple-and-brown floral print featured on skirts and dresses, but also imbued the rest of the collection with softer shades of lavender, cream, rust, and khaki. Keller's square-shaped shirts, cinched at the waist with bows to create a peplum, were either trimmed in lace or given oversize sleeves. "I liked treating the fabric in a more luxurious way so that it had more structure but still feels relaxed," Keller said. The season's pants, pleated to create more room through the leg and slightly tapered at the ankle, serve as evidence of that easygoing sentiment, too.
For Chloé's Fall 2012 collection, Clare Waight Keller showed an effortlessly chic collection filled with pastel hues and sporty nuances. It was all about looking effortlessly luxe, as Waight Keller sent her models down the runway in barely-there makeup and a lineup of relaxed silhouettes. Full, knee-length skirts and pantaloon-style shorts were cinched in with elastic waistbands, while soft wool trousers received the same treatment at the ankles. However, it was Waight Keller's outerwear that stole the show. An array of luxurious oversize military coats and car coats were splashed in pastel pink, blue, and yellow hues. Dresses ranged from feminine lace frocks to a silk black taffeta cutout gown. There were also a bevy of colorblocked satchels and oversize clutches that will surely hit the must-have accessory list. More details from Chloé's Fall 2012 collection below.
- Trends: Oversize coats, capes, lace, sporty details.
- Colors: Pastel pink, baby blue, ivory, red, gray, camel, brown.
- Key Piece: The outerwear pieces were gorgeous, especially the pastel pink opening number.
- Accessories: Ankle-strap pumps, colorblock satchels, oversize clutches, wide belts.
- Who Would Wear It: Effortless, polished girls, like Kirsten Dunst and Chloë Moretz.
Clare Waight Keller debuted her first Spring collection for Chloé since taking the reigns from Hannah MacGibbon. Waight Keller, who most recently headed up design for knitwear brand Pringle of Scotland, showed a superbly light hand, sending flowy silhouettes and a soft palette down the runway. There was a hint of menswear in the cut of boxy shirts, blouses, and trousers, but it all felt very feminine thanks to prints — pretty florals — and colorblocking that mixed tones of blush and nude with deeper red or blue tones. Highlights were definitely the pleated pieces, which swished down the runway and gave a bouncy feel to the carefree collection. We can't wait to see what Waight Keller does next.
- Trends: Pleats, colorblock, boxy silhouettes.
- Colors: Nudes, blushes, rose, garnet, navy, white, cream.
- Key Look: The pleated pieces; a beautiful nude tunic over a white romper.
- Accessories: Wide belts, leather clutches in pretty colors like yellow or orange, leather flat sandals.
- Who Would Wear It: Easy, breezy girls like Gwyneth Paltrow or Clemence Poesy.