Craig McDean

>> If you didn't get enough late '90s references at Alexander Wang, look to Proenza Schouler to fill your Fall 2010 quota. Newcomer Ann Kenny — who has the most arresting blue eyes — opened the show in high-waisted graffiti pants, made in collaboration with J Brand, and a shrunken navy toggle jacket. All the John Fleuvog-style curved platform heels and sheer thigh highs paired with full pleated school girl-style miniskirts must have caught Anna Wintour's attention — she sat next to Bee Shaffer the entire show, sunglasses-less (a first?), until the final runthrough when she finally put her trademark shades on.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had the house packed: benches arranged around the X-shaped runway sat as many as they could possibly fit — with the likes of Pamela Love, Mary-Kate Olsen, Jen Brill, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Carine Roitfeld (in green furry heels), Joseph Altuzarra, Lauren Santo Domingo, Vanessa Traina, Chloe Sevigny, Craig McDean, Terry Richardson, and Olivier Zahm all accounted for. Bass pumped through Milk Studios loud enough to shake the walls, while fuzzy printed flannel dresses and alpine knits evolved into razor-sharp cropped jackets and finally, patterned minidresses with bubble skirts and trapeze shapes.

Marie Chaix styled once again, and if you're a fan of straight-off-the-runway (many front-rowers had their PS 1 clutches handy), for the next 24-odd hours, two of the runway handbags are available for purchase.  Post-show, a sight: Hamish Bowles, in his usual dapper suit, but instead of his usual brogues, his trousers stuffed into shiny black wellies.  A video of the show can be seen here.

For its February issue, Interview magazine and photog Craig McDean got zany with Sasha Pivovarova in an editorial filled with psychedelic whimsy. In a spread dubbed My Space, Sasha looks like the ultimate raver doll — when else would you tape over your eyes? — dripped in an array of bedazzled boleros, florescent tulle, and Prada's lusty crystal-embellished sandals. I'm smitten with her perfectly tangled hair, which comes complete with dusty pink highlights, and mannequin-like expressions. It's kinda creepy and way cool. If you look past the amazing artistic mess, you'll also find some sumptuous, soft skirts and embellished tops. Sasha is a doll in her own little funhouse — freakin' amazing.

>> For her first runway show since leaving Chloe in 2006 to focus on motherhood, Phoebe Philo sent out a fast-marching group of models swaddled in earth tones, clunky wood wedges, modified trenches, military details, lots of leather, and curiously few handbags, despite Celine's accessory-brand heritage.  Bound inspiration books from Philo, containing photos of Kurt Cobain, disco balls, and work by David Sims and Helmut Newton were placed on every seat.

The mood of the collection, one of the season's most anticipated, Philo described as “purposeful and positive.” Backstage, while holding her five-year-old daughter, Maya, who attended the show with Philo's husband, she went on: "I wanted to clean it up, refocus, and present a strong, powerful woman." And of all the expectation: "It's just the beginning. It felt like, just take it easy, just start easy. It's nice to have the bubble of expectations burst. That feels good. Sometimes what people get into their head is unachievable."

In the front row were top photographers David Sims, Mario Testino, Craig McDean; Pucci designer Peter Dundas, who called the collection "wonderful"; and top LVMH brass, including Bernard Arnault, who stood to applaud Philo afterward. As Suzy Menkes put it, "This was an important exercise in making Celine fashion credible. And that was mission accomplished."

>> While Calvin Klein is sticking to Eva Mendes for their Fall 2009 Underwear ads — and giving her the Calvin Klein Jeans campaign as well — they're switching it up for the rest of the cadre. Jourdan Dunn and Sigrid Agren paired up for the CK Calvin Klein set by Craig McDean, who also photographed the Calvin Klein campaign with Jamie Dornan and Edita Vilkeviciute. And the Calvin Klein Collection set was done by David Sims with brand exclusive Monica "Jac" Jagaciak, who opened and closed the brand's Fall 2009 show.  Get used to these images — they're appearing on 1,080 pages globally.

>> This year's CFDA Awards are coming up on June 15, and for the accompanying CFDA Journal, which is handed out at the ceremony and showcases all the nominees, Craig McDean and Karl Templer enlisted all 21 designers to model their own work (last year, Raquel Zimmermann did the honors).

Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte go rosy-cheeked, International Award winner for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, sports a pair of the bunny ears from his latest show, Accessory Designer of the Year nominees Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez wear their handbags like boxing gloves — perhaps a cheeky nod to recent events — and Swarovski Womenswear Designer nominee Jason Wu layered one of his evening gowns over a suit, playing on the Fred Astaire-Ginger Rogers duality of himself and his designs.

While the Journal won't be available for public consumption, the CFDA has introduced a Popular Vote Award this year, so that anyone can nominate their favorite designer to win until June 9.