Donna Karan

>> Back in May, Next Management sued Ford Models for allegedly poaching Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Karmen Pedaru, and Ania Cywinska; then, last week it emerged that the three models in question are suing Next. They are claiming that they left Next for Ford because it was allegedly refusing them their bookings compensation: Pedaru says Next owes her at least $400,000; Jagodzinska says she's out $230,000; and Cywinska says she has yet to be paid $30,000. All three are each seeking $1 million in punitive damages in addition to their earnings in full, and they are also gunning for the right to look at Next's books to identify other victims.

Jezebel obtained a copy of the lawsuit, which includes Anna Jagodzinska's account statement at Next as of April 23, 2010 (the three models left Next that month). Regardless of the suit, it shows what organizations pay their models and how quickly they dispatch said payments. Vogue Paris, for example, owed Jagodzinska a day rate of $125 for a job done almost a year beforehand — in May 2009. And Vogue owed Jagodzinska two day rate payments of $250 each, one for a job done in December 2009, the other from October 2009.

It's well-known that magazine gigs don't pay much, but these are cold, hard numbers to prove it. If money is what you're after, go for a gig with J.Crew (which owed Jagodzinska $15,000 for catalogue work done in January 2010), H&M (which was still on the books for $60,000 worth of work with Jagodzinska in March 2010), or an agency like Laird + Partners (on the hook for $35,000 — Jagodzinska worked with them on Bottega Veneta and Donna Karan campaigns) or Grey Paris (which is listed as owing Jagodzinska $172,500 and works with beauty clients like Dolce & Gabbana, Lacoste, and Escada). Again, it's no secret, but now there's numeric illustration of the gaping disparity between magazine work and catalogue, beauty, or campaign work.

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>> Cathy Horyn is known for her acerbic take on fashion — in her review of Alexander Wang's Spring 2011 collection, she set tongues wagging after pronouncing: "Mr. Wang is not a great designer, though he probably would be happy to accept any laurels that people want to toss him, but he is clearly a shrewd guy . . . The designs were cool, but they didn’t have to stand up to much scrutiny — hey, didn’t Marni do those pants last season? — so long as the stuff was widely and easily available. Mr. Wang doesn’t really have courage in the traditional sense of trying something new and difficult, but he does have China. Nearly all of his clothing is now produced there."

Horyn more recently spent time at Azzedine Alaia's boutique during Paris Fashion Week — Wang also happened to be there, although no word on whether there was any interaction — and she explained to The Daily Beast that her goal is to bring a critical eye to those admired uncritically: "With Alexander, he's a smart kid, I admire the business that he's built, but you have to be critical of what he's done. You can't just say 'Oh well, he's young and he's working hard, he's putting a product on the runway.' I found that show boring. I may not have found other shows boring, but I found that one boring."

She's also critical of Fashion's Night Out: "I hope it doesn't go on. I don't want it to continue . . . You know, we're a nation of shoppers. That's how people spend their time, shopping online, shopping in stores, acquiring. And I feel like we perpetuate that with Fashion's Night Out. What are you really celebrating? Not art or great books. You're celebrating shopping."

Horyn sums up her critical approach as thus: "[I] want people to be better. [I] have standards. [I] want people to be not just good but very good. And I can be tough on people, sometimes too tough, especially with the most creative. I once called one of Tom Ford's collections freakish and ugly."

For all of Horyn's words logged on designers, however, The Daily Beast had trouble getting anyone to speak about Horyn: "During Fashion Week, I went from show to show, and party to party, asking about Horyn. Almost everyone declined comment or claimed that they don't actually read her reviews." A few did speak, however. "I prefer to look at beautiful pictures in magazines like American Vogue and French Vogue by editors like Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld," Karl Lagerfeld said. "I don't think reviews really matter anymore," Carolina Herrera said. Donna Karan admitted, meanwhile, that getting swiped by Horyn "still hurts. You can agree or disagree with her, but it's definitely passionate. She's not neutered, let's put it that way."

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