>> Doo-Ri Chung switched things up for her Fall 2011 collection by injecting an edgy tailored touch to her signature draping skills. The look was described by Chung as "linear structure" and inspired by artist Beverly Semmes. Jersey gowns — Chung's bread and butter — were of course present, this time remixed with thigh-high slits and intricate cord macrame detailing. There, too, were more tailored pieces like felted wool coats, nylon jackets, trousers, and silk blazers. Meanwhile, fur jackets, cozy dolman sweaters, leather insets, and mohair embroidered tops added an overall textural quality to the collection. Stylist Beat Bolliger furthered the modern-vibed collection with a selection of chunky woven booties and racy lace-up thigh-high boots. No doubt, Chung has made a definite departure from her draping heavy collections in the past, and it's looking good.
Doo-Ri Chung is known for her signature draping skills but for her Fall 2011 collection seen earlier this evening at Eyebeam Gallery in Chelsea, the designer mixed things up. In addition to showing languid jersey gowns, some slit high to the thigh, the designer introduced a new category to her repertoire: slick tailored pieces comprised of felted wool coats, nylon jackets, and trousers. Dresses, embellished with cool cord macrame also played an integral role in the storyboard inspired by artist Beverly Semmes. This concept, described by Doo-Ri as "linear structure," adds a sharp touch without looking too severe — perfect for that city girl wanting to add a little edge to her look.
- Trends: Long silhouettes, mohair trim, high-slit gowns and long skirts, dolman sleeves, sheer and leather inserts, cord macrame detailing.
- Colors: Gray, sapphire blue, navy, beige.
- Key Looks: A heather gray racerback gown with sheer inserts.
- Accessories: Chunky leather woven booties, simple leather bracelets, oversized wool scarves, thigh-high lace-up boots.
- Who Would Wear It: Urban nomads, art types.
Doo-Ri Chung's fall 2010 collection shown at Chelsea's Eyebeam Gallery yesterday started off with two strong navy and black looks—first a sharp jacket with a draped hem paired with slim trousers, followed by a military style shirtdress that fell lose around the hips with the same black netting.
Chung's military-inspired pieces, especially the pants which had buckles hanging off the hips and diagonal snaps along the thigh, were among her best looks. The black and blue theme carrying over through one almost electric blue-dyed fox fur coat with black leather trim and a series of cropped jackets, one which changed from blue to black depending on the light and one whose marble print was reminiscent of Doo.Ri spring 2010.
Skipping over the moments of geranium red and crystal-encrusted everything (leggings, jersey dresses, even the models lips were painted pale blue and made glittery), the show ended on a high note with two long and lean evening looks, most memorable in a gray suede sleeveless top and floor-length narrow skirt.
Doo-Ri Chung experimented with digital, abstract prints and floral screen prints for pre-fall—the former on ruffled tops, tiered skirts, and short dresses and the latter on an ivory cropped jacket with ballon sleeves. Although the designer played with a few new ideas, there were plenty of the popular draped jersey dresses for which the collection has become known. Click below for our favorite looks from Doo.Ri pre-fall.
Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week: Ralph Lauren Expands to Three Shows; Two Designers Dare to Overlap with Fashion's Night Out
>> New York Fashion Week is still over a month away, but Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week just released its official calendar today and the Fashion Calendar — which shows all of the shows not included in the Bryant Park festivities — has appeared online, so we can get an idea of what will be going down in that crazy time period between Sept. 9 and Sept. 17.
Despite the industry's economic doldrums, a few designers are adding an extra show for Spring 2010 — Ralph Lauren is upgrading from two showings to three in his usual morning-of-the-last-day spot; Phillip Lim is following in close friend Richard Chai's footsteps, doing a two separate shows this season, one for men's and one for women's, rather than combining them like he usually does; and Thom Browne, who chose to show his Fall 2009 collection in Florence instead of at New York Fashion Week, is back on the schedule with not one but two shows.
We last heard about Doo-Ri Chung's budget-friendly line back in December. Seven months later, Under.Ligne has come to fruition. The current collection has nine pieces — fancy tees, leggings, and draped dresses — ranging from $150 to $495. Not cheap but way less than the designer's main label. Also unlike the main line, Under.Ligne's silhouettes are more simplified and everyday. Now I'm just waiting for Doo-Ri's novel hosiery collection. In the meantime, are you digging Under.Ligne?
Doo-Ri Chung has learned the right pair of tights can instantly transform an outfit. After receiving high accolades for the leggings shown in her Fall collection, seen left, Doo-Ri has decided to launch a hosiery line.
“I would love to use studs or bring something in that could be smooth on the surface,” said Chung. “Legwear is so important because women today see themselves in complete looks, and with how big accessories have become, they see how models are on the runway and that’s how they want to get dressed.”
The Doo.Ri leggings collection will make its debut in the Fall. If her hosiery does well, Chung will consider creating a more extensive line for next Spring.
>> IN PRODUCTION —Last night, Doo.Ri launched her 12-piece lower-priced secondary line, Under.Ligne, full of her trademark draped jersey with some leather pieces mixed in. The line has been a year in the making and hits stores in July. For now, it only comes in gray, black, and white, but she plans on rotating to new colors every season. [Style File, Elle News, Fashionista]