Kate Moss, who long ago left the runway for more lucrative ad campaigns and edgy editorials, made a big return when she closed the Louis Vuitton show in Paris. This is Kate Moss, so you should expect some dose of provocation, and the Brit beauty offered it in the form of a lit cigarette, which she smoked as she strode the catwalk in tap pants, a fur and leather jacket, and knee-high strappy boots. When you are one of the world's top supermodels, smoking on the runway seems like good fun. But in light of her troubles in the past, do you think Kate's act is in bad taste?
>> Kate Moss, who was last spotted on a Fashion Week runway in 2004, closed out the Louis Vuitton runway today while puffing on a cigarette, ending a lineup that included Amber Valletta, Carolyn Murphy, and Naomi Campbell. The models were ferried up to the stage in four gilded elevators, flanked by bellboys, a setting of which Marc Jacobs explained, "It was supposed to be a hotel, it's actually my experience at Claridge's. I love when I see these exquisite creatures get out of the elevator, and some of them would be maids, hookers, mistresses, wives, criminals . . . I've been in plenty of hotels in plenty of countries at this point, and it's very interesting to see who leaves at what time of day, and what they're wearing the day after."
Save for a brilliant flash of lavender and baby blue, Alexander McQueen went black and white, allowing for some gray area. The show was anything but stark; making up for lack of color was a collection filled with incredible texture and structure, causing one to wonder, "How'd they do that?!" The sharp, couture-level tailoring could be seen in fitted wool jackets trimmed in fur, always color on color so that Freja Beha Erichsen looked like a rare white bird in her white coat with white fur. If the white pieces, particularly the stunning evening gowns that finished the show, seemed pure as snow, the black outfits explored a darker, sexier existence. There was leather harnessing and extensive lacing showing skin, but also suggesting one fierce warrior underneath. Another triumphant showing from Sarah Burton, who was thrust into the head designer role after McQueen's death.
- Trends: Body-conscious, medieval, warrior, fur.
- Colors: White, black, gray, lavender, and baby blue.
- Key Looks: The white evening gowns were awe-inspiring.
- Accessories: Lace-up platform booties and boots were killer.
- Who Would Wear It: Dramatic, romantic women who occasionally indulge their dark side.
Marc Jacobs goes all out with a theme, and this season was no exception. Louis Vuitton opened the final day of Paris Fashion Week with a fetish-inspired collection as the models stepped out of three elevators onto the catwalk. Kate Moss made a rare catwalk appearance as she closed the show in a rubberised lace jacket, joining an impressive lineup that included Amber Valletta, Carolyn Murphy, and Naomi Campbell. The collection involved statement outerwear with beautiful dropped shoulder coats along with cashmere sweaters, Peter Pan collars, and sheer skirts. Front-row guests included Emma Stone and Natalia Vodianova. The sexual theme of the collection was confirmed with stockings and handcuff accessories.
- Trends: Statement outerwear, fetish, round shoulders, Peter Pan collars.
- Colours: Black, white, red, and blue.
- Key Looks: Rubber lace jacket with fuzzy mongolian sleeves and barely there shorts.
- Accessories: Clutch bags attached to chunky cuffs, large embossed bags, police hats, and platform boots.
- Who Would Wear It: Strong, powerful women.
For Fall 2011, designing duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli conjured up a romantic collection overflowing with soft and feminine looks. The two remixed iconic lace dresses and made them sheer, some designed with perfect knife-pleats, while other gowns integrated lace with a chevron detailing. For daywear, '70s-inspired trousers were paired with sheer tops and decadent coats, and chic knit tops were paired with melton wool skirts evoking a classic ladylike appeal. Meanwhile, standout leather coats, dipped in dark teal and chocolate brown, added just the right amount of contrast to the soft and pretty collection.