Fall 2012 Paris Fashion Week

Both a reimagining and an homage to the label's signature aesthetic, Karl Lagerfeld plays in tweed, sporty silhouettes, and whimsical layers and texture (and bejeweled eyebrows) for Chanel's Fall 2012. Lagerfeld's all-star cast (minus a noticeably absent Freja), including Miranda Kerr, Joan Smalls, and Anja Rubik, took to the catwalk of a snowy white cave, done up in crystal embellishments that mirrored the life-size versions set on the runway. That in itself set the mood for whimsy, which only became more pronounced in Karl's colorful, metallic-embellished visions for Fall — shimmer reflected in slim pants, sparkly-tinged knits, and sheer skirts. Meanwhile, Chanel's tweed got the rainbow treatment, as did the offering of diaphanous frocks with a dose of soft brights. Outerwear maintained the label's sophistication, though the flair for drama was evidenced in roomier silhouettes, some that gave way to boxier shapes with sloped, rounded shoulders, but more that skimmed and highlighted curves in hourglass proportions. That's not to say that it was "ladylike" — very little here spoke to Chanel's ladylike sense. In fact, the feel was overwhelmingly sportier. Even when textures were dressed up in rich metallic detail, shapes were more nonchalant — tunics and dresses layered over pants and perfectly slouchy knits topped trousers. There was nothing too literal; even in playfulness, Karl never overcommits. Jewel tones and geometric details felt fresh, and proportional play felt casual, not overworked. He knows exactly how to draw us in with the theatrics of his runway, but never loses sight of what we've all come to see.

• Trends: Dresses over pants, texture, sporty, brights, sheer, metallics.
• Colors: Black, green, white, fuchsia, purple, yellow, gray, teal, blue.
• Key Piece: The textured metallic trousers were amazing.
• Accessories: Cutout buckled Lucite heels, oversize crystal pendants and matching bracelets, Chanel crossbody handbags and clutches in every hue.
• Who Would Wear It: Karl's girls, Diane Kruger, Rachel Bilson, and Blake Lively.

Stefano Pilati bid adieu to Yves Saint Laurent with a dark, sexy Fall 2012 in all moody iterations of womanly dress. There's both a sultry undercurrent and a definitive strength that runs throughout Pilati's finale. It's a give and take — boxier leather jackets and trousers, and sharp outerwear have as much of a place as slinky dresses and pencil skirts constructed in light-reflecting mesh. Even when Pilati zeroes in on more masculine construction, he never misses the mark of a woman — nearly every look is completed with a wide belt to accentuate the waist and plush fur accents are thrown effortlessly over shoulders. It's the kind of thing that — without being glaringly obvious — speaks to the power, the allure of a woman. It's not done up in bells and whistles, but you have a sense that it takes a certain kind of confidence to pull off the line's structured, streamlined white suit or ultralow necklines — and it's clear Pilati's florals are crafted for women, not girls.

• Trends: Leather, fur, boxy jackets, sharp suiting, gloves, florals, sequin-like mesh.
• Colors: Black, green, gold, white.
• Key Piece: The color-tinged, shimmering mesh on slinky evening dresses and pencil skirts.
• Accessories: Slick black boots, leather gloves, wide black belts, metallic pumps, sculptural wraparound flower chokers.
• Who Would Wear It: This is for the modern-glam; front-row fans like Salma Hayek.

>> If you've got to go, might as well do it with a bang. Or better yet, with an army of sharp-shouldered power women leading the charge.

For his last collection at Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati did just that. His coats, dresses, tops, and trousers were cut in strongly tailored '80s shapes — broad-topped, angular, and belted. Chainmail dresses, slinky jumpsuits, and asymmetrical furs felt darkly glam in dusky greens and inky blacks; and the house's Le Smoking was re-imagined in sharp swaths of silver or leather. It was tough, chic, and as confident as they come.

Pilati may be out, but he's not looking back.

Vanessa Bruno's 2012 Fall collection was all about the cool girl, which will surely please fashion insiders like Alexa Chung and Hollywood darlings Rachel Bilson and Kate Bosworth. Just what did the French designer have in store? A heavy helping of patent-leather pants and skirts paired with her signature tailored blazers, jewel-tone silk lace dresses, and gorgeous metallic finishes on structured tops and cropped trousers. Slick and modern looks were further translated into leather-trimmed quilted jackets, sheer embellished dresses, and vibrant handbags. The latter highlighted a range of covetable sequined and bright floral-print satchels and clutches. More details from the collection below.

• Trends: Leather pants, sheer detailing, and statement outerwear.
• Colors: Black, gray, metallic green, purple, blue, and white.
• Key Piece: We loved the statement-making patent-leather trousers and long coats.
• Accessories: Printed satchel bags and clutches, black and white ankle and lace-up boots..
• Who Would Wear It: We can easily see Rachel Bilson and Kate Bosworth in the brand's Parisian-chic wares.

>> Vanessa Bruno went dark, tough, and moody for Fall 2012. Shiny vinyl crop-pants, hip-skimming leather skirts, sharp-cut blazers, and sheer lace tops came in a palette of black, black, and more black — plus a few jewel tones, for good measure.

For Chloé's Fall 2012 collection, Clare Waight Keller showed an effortlessly chic collection filled with pastel hues and sporty nuances. It was all about looking effortlessly luxe, as Waight Keller sent her models down the runway in barely-there makeup and a lineup of relaxed silhouettes. Full, knee-length skirts and pantaloon-style shorts were cinched in with elastic waistbands, while soft wool trousers received the same treatment at the ankles. However, it was Waight Keller's outerwear that stole the show. An array of luxurious oversize military coats and car coats were splashed in pastel pink, blue, and yellow hues. Dresses ranged from feminine lace frocks to a silk black taffeta cutout gown. There were also a bevy of colorblocked satchels and oversize clutches that will surely hit the must-have accessory list. More details from Chloé's Fall 2012 collection below.

• Trends: Oversize coats, capes, lace, sporty details.
• Colors: Pastel pink, baby blue, ivory, red, gray, camel, brown.
• Key Piece: The outerwear pieces were gorgeous, especially the pastel pink opening number.
• Accessories: Ankle-strap pumps, colorblock satchels, oversize clutches, wide belts.
• Who Would Wear It: Effortless, polished girls, like Kirsten Dunst and Chloë Moretz.

>> For her second season at Chloé, Clare Waight Keller worked the house's signature pastels into an easy-wearing lineup of slouchy separates and puffed-up outerwear — and it felt just right for Fall 2012. Silhouettes were soft, sporty, and cozy in quilted silk, fleecy wools, and nubby knits. Slim-cut trousers, button-down blouses, and utility pockets offered a sense of structure, while breezy pieces in an assortment of lace added girlie charm.