>> Alberta Ferretti's Spring 2010 presentation was both upscale and democratic: waiters circulated with champagne and caviar, on the one hand, but everyone also had the chance to be a front rower — there were no seats but there was a four foot high or so runway, allowing guests to get up as close as they wanted to the walking models, concert-style. The Italian contingent was out in full force — Anna Dello Russo in fiery Lanvin and nude pumps, Franca Sozzani — and the collection, full of fresh, gauzy, light minidresses had prints of eyes, butterflies, and lips — the last vaguely remniscent of Prada's iconic Spring 2000 lip print collection.
Streetstyle Photog Couple Snag More Vogue Space: The Sartorialist with Vogue Italia, Garance Dore with Vogue Paris
>> Scott "The Sartorialist" Schuman, whose first book came out last week, is about to add another Vogue edition to his resume: Vogue Italia. Schuman has photographed for Vogue Paris in the past — Carine Roitfeld is a fan — and seems to have won over Franca Sozzani: he recently shot Rachel Rutt for Vogue Italia.
His girlfriend and fellow streetstyle photographer Garance Dore has also been amping up her reach: this Fall, she will have more frequent contributions on Vogue Paris's website and perhaps in the magazine, focusing on the magazine's "Une fille, un style" ("A girl, a style") column, plus "behind-the-scenes coverage of fashion shoots, profiles of stylish women around the world in collaboration with French Vogue editor in chief Carine Roitfeld and other subjects of her choosing."
And last week, Patrick Robinson announced that Garance would be collaborating with Gap on an exhibit in their London pop-up next month, with her sketches (like the one above, left) on T-shirts.
>> Natalia Vodianova, Franca Sozzani Make Vanity Fair's 2009 International Best-Dressed List —Vanity Fair just released the contents of its annual International Best-Dressed List from its September issue, and there are fashion figures galore; a whole category was devoted to "Fashion Professionals," which Franca Sozzani, Georgina Chapman, Tory Burch, Style.com's Candy Pratts Price, Rachel Roy, Edun's Ali Hewson, Prada France's Mathilde Meyer-Agostinelli, David Lauren populate. Natalia Vodianova and Justin Portman are included in the "Couples" named; Bruce Weber and Peter Beard are listed under "Fashion Originals"; Matteo Marzotto, formerly of Valentino and currently of Vionnet, is on the Men's Best-Dressed List; and Lapo Elkann made the Hall of Fame. Anna Wintour wasn't included, but she did get a nod from Renee Zellweger, who listed her among her style icons. [Vanity Fair]
>> Is an ode to women of color becoming an annual thing for Vogue Italia? In its July 2009 issue, one year after the iconic all-black July 2008 issue, Franca Sozzani decided to use only black dolls in the issue's supplement commemorating 50 years of Barbie: “Barbie has been an icon for whole generations which is why I really wanted to give a strong sign in step with the times, and dedicate the anniversary issue to black Barbie.”
The supplement features the dolls — which are part of the newly-launched "So In Style" collection and are designed "with more authentic-looking black features, including . . . fuller lips, a wider nose, more distinctive cheekbones and curlier hair," dressed, posed, and photographed in editorial-like settings — see a few more pictures from inside here.
>> The Venice Biennale contemporary arts exhibition attracted plenty of familiar fashion faces by last Thursday, but it wouldn't have been complete without an appearance by contemporary art patron Miuccia Prada, who obliged on Friday with a party courtesy of the Fondazione Prada. The opening was temporarily put off by torrential rains, but still managed to attract the likes of Marc Jacobs, Lorenzo Martone, Franca Sozzani, Carine Roitfeld, Carla Sozzani, and Dasha Zhukova.
Many of the guests then carried on to Francois Pinault's Palazzo Grassi, where Gucci Group was sponsoring a party in honor of L'Uomo Vogue's art issue. Naomi Campbell — who one observer noted was keeping a lower profile than at the Biennale in 2007 — joined the crowd, apparently making quite the entrance with boyfriend Vladislav Doronin and his bodyguards and causing one guest to joke, "Does he need them to protect himself from Naomi?"
>> Where art goes, fashion is soon to follow, and with the contemporary arts Biennale going on in Venice right now, there are plenty of designers, editors, and even models in town. On Wednesday, Olympia Scarry’s installation brought out Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue Russia's Aliona Doletskaya, and POP's Dasha Zhukova, as well as Justin Portman and Natalia Vodianova, the latter whose face was reflected in a luminated, aged sketch on display called Dorian Gray, by artist Dasha Fursey.
Naomi Campbell and boyfriend Vladislav Doronin stopped by a lunch for the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art, and popped up again yesterday at the opening of Francois Pinault's new museum, the Punta della Dogana. Stella McCartney was there with husband Alasdhair Willis to support her financier in his new endeavor, as were Franca Sozzani and Marc Jacobs, always the fan of contemporary art, who apparently kept exclaiming, "This place rocks."
Meanwhile, down the river, Angela Missoni held her annual party on boyfriend Bruno Ragazzi's yacht. It was quite the family and friends affair: Angela's daughters Margherita and Teresa, plus son Francesco were all mingling, Franca Sozzani brought son Francesco Carrozzini, and Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld arrived with Carine Roitfeld, who neglected to follow the rest in taking her lace-up shoes off: "It would just take too long to undo them." Bee Shaffer was sans Anna Wintour, but Jefferson Hack brought fiancee Anouck Lepere.
Even those who aren't in Venice in person are there in spirit — Mario Testino sent one of his art consultants to scout the exhibition.
>> Paris Fashion Week starts tomorrow, but fashion folk couldn't leave Milan without hitting up the Palazzo della Ragione last night for one last Milanese shindig, courtesy of Anna Wintour, Domenico Dolce, and Stefano Gabbana. The launch for the "Extreme Beauty in Vogue" exhibition — which Anna selected 89 images for — the party was likened to the Milanese equivalent of the Costume Institute Gala; in other words, the week's hottest ticket. Karl Lagerfeld made a beeline for the photos after mugging for a few cameras, while Anna was trailed by 60 Minutes's Morley Safer and Carine Roitfeld by CNN: “I am being followed round all the shows, and they are doing lots of interviews. But you won’t be seeing me naked.” Miuccia Prada sported one of her new Fall 2009 gladiatorial dresses, and rounding out the fashion wattage a troika of supermodels: two we see quite a bit of (Claudia Schiffer, Eva Herzigova) and one we do not (Nadja Auermann).
*image: source, source
>> Even after the groundbreaking all-black July 2008 Vogue Italia and the newly inaugurated President Obama, models of color are still having trouble taking the runway in Milan. After three days of menswear, only Giorgio Armani and Donatella Versace cast black models; Jil Sander, Gucci, Missoni, Burberry, Trussardi, Bottega Veneta, Gianfranco Ferre, Roberto Cavalli, and Prada did not.
Frida Giannini, who has cast exactly one black female model since since she took the reins at Gucci in 2005 — Chanel Iman — blamed modeling agencies: "I think it would be great if there was an industry initiative on this issue, because I am always looking for black models, or even Chinese or whatever, for the shows. I’m after a specific kind of look, and I request the agencies — I asked last season — to send me someone interesting. But they never send me anyone very new."
Finger-pointing seems to be the go-to excuse with this issue, but the owner of New York agency Red says he flew out three promising black models, who ended up with "amazing options, options I’d never seen before on black guys" for Prada or Jil Sander. Unfortunately, they all fell through before the shows.
Even Franca Sozzani, editor of Vogue Italia, who had such a hand in pinpointing the issue, seems ready to push it aside, blaming the lack of diversity on the fact that designers might see it is "too obvious" to cast black models the week of Obama's inauguration. “It has nothing to do with a racist attitude."
Fashion In 50 Seconds 12/11/08 More Pre-Fall, LOVE Throws Down, Sozzani Wins Again, Slimane Captures Kids
Another pre-fall show to add to the roster, another convincing diversion from the fact that there's a real-life fashion week looming some months from now. Dolce & Gabbana released a glimpse at their Pre-Fall 2009 collection, and WWD has the first shots.
LOVE magazine is proceeding full steam ahead and they've proven that point by throwing a major star-studded party at the Royal Academy of Art last night. Grazia reports on last night's soiree.
Which Vogue editor is quickly becoming as popular among Americans as the one and only Carine? The Cut gives some love to Franca Sozzani who, we learn, is just as crush-worthy.
Images from Hedi Slimane's shoot for the January issue of Dazed have been released on the magazine's website. Prepare yourself for the young and the restless.
>> After missing out on the Chanel Mobile Art opening and the Versace-hosted Whitney gala earlier this week, Anna Wintour was back in fine form — with Karl Lagerfeld at her side and Chanel on her person — at the Fashion Group International's Night of Stars last night. It was a night of family — Donatella Versace picked up the Superstar Award as Allegra Beck Versace looked on, Franca Sozzani was honored with her son Francesco Carrozzini in attendance — and friends — honorees Christopher Bailey and Francisco Costa brought Kate Bosworth and Ashley Olsen, respectively. Host Simon Doonan kept it light, at one point joking that Carla Sozzani had to make it back to the Marriott Marquis in time for a speed-dating session.
*image: source, source