Gareth Pugh

Who other than Gareth Pugh could make dark futurism look so good? For his Fall 2013 collection, Pugh abandoned the brief flirtation with the Middle Ages he showed last season and went back to basics — or at least back to his basics. The clothing here was sculptural, dark, and edgy, and it ran the gamut from minimally decorated to extremely ornate.

The show went from light to dark, starting with a series of white pieces — gowns, or floor-length skirts paired with jackets — with golden branches snaking up from the hems. Then black made its way in, as did gray and a deep, moody blue. Many of the garments featured necklines that stood up on their own, as if Pugh wanted the audience to focus on his models' faces and wild hair instead of on his clothing. But any competition those hairdos might have offered couldn't hold a candle to the black masterworks that ended the show.

Gareth Pugh has officially gone medieval — but not in a Game of Thrones or theme park kind of way. For Spring 2013, the British expatriate took some of the shapes and feelings of that murky time several hundred years before the Renaissance and distilled them into a near-futuristic collection of dresses with angel sleeves, portrait necklines, and flashes of embellishment restrained by a limited color palette. The first exit was a model in a black gown wearing a black veil elevated from her head by a cylindrical headpiece. That was followed by more black (this is Gareth Pugh we're talking about, after all) and others in a silvery gray and fiery red. While the all the pieces were subtle in their decoration — one black jacket had laser-cut sleeves in an interesting pattern — the red dresses were particularly interesting. One red shirt was mostly ruffles, while a pair of red bell bottoms got a dramatic hit of movement courtesy of two fluttering panels of fabric attached to each leg.

>> To a thudding bass and the raining-down of black rose petals — with Daphne Guinness and Michelle Harper sitting front row — Gareth Pugh presented a dramatically moody Fall 2012 collection in Paris today. Fringe, fur, and an overcast palette of black and gray dominated, but there was a restrained sense of balance at play as well: superfull fur skirts and sculpted-shoulder dresses contrasted with nipped waists or tight corset bodices in sleek black leather.

MAC Cosmetics is known for its high-fashion makeup, and Gareth Pugh is known for his avant-garde designs, so it just makes sense that the two would combine for a truly high-fashion mashup. Coming Nov. 23 (and available until Dec. 23) is the limited-edition Gareth Pugh For MAC collection.

"When creating my makeup collection with MAC I wanted it to be unexpected — creating something truly beautiful, very sophisticated, and incredibly chic but of course — with an underlying edge of darkness and attitude," Pugh said in a statement.

Colors in the line strike a balance between strong and ethereal, with hues such as deep blues, purples, silvers, and iridescents woven throughout. From angular lashes to butterfly-wing-inspired polishes, see it all up close now.

>> Gareth Pugh doesn't currently participate in couture, but he recently took a crack at a showstopping bridal gown — for his best friend and longtime collaborator, stylist Katie Shillingford, who was married last Friday. Shillingford wed Alex Dromgoole in the 1930s Art Deco-style Eltham Palace of Greenwich, England, wearing a custom pale grey slashed chiffon Pugh dress, complete with a trail that hung from her shoulders and a veil created by Stephen Jones.

Shillingford's bridesmaids — including Dazed & Confused and Another's Karen Langley, who helped design the wedding cake — wore black striped knitted dresses by Craig Lawrence, and Shillingford changed in a Fall 2011 Gareth Pugh gold dress and Fall 2011 Miu Miu shoes for the reception.

If recent runway looks are any indication, blue shadow will be one of the hottest makeup shades around come Fall. From bright (as in the electric blue eye makeup at Steffie Christiaens's Paris Fashion Week show pictured here) to the futuristic, here are five additional ways designers featured the look during recent 2011 Fall Fashion Weeks around the globe.