Gareth Pugh's Fall 2009 range was shown in video format but a few people got the proper showroom treatment complete with runway simulation and everything. After all, no matter how praised is the video, a sober look at the clothes is requisite. Pugh worked with that jarring pin motif, which we first saw in his men's show, and also experimented with geometric shapes on varying scales. One morsel of wisdom you can take away from this collection: thigh high boots are a sure thing.
>> WSJ., The Wall Street Journal's glossy, is back this weekend with a fashion-centric March issue featuring LVMH chief Bernard Arnault. Inside, Arnault hints that LVMH might be in the market to acquire more companies. “We’re about to enter a market of buyers over the next six-to-eight months. There will be opportunities, and we will be looking at them.” According to WSJ., Arnault was “in talks to invest in a fashion company with ecological and ethical goals founded by a global celebrity” at the time the article was written — WWD is guessing Edun, Bono’s green clothing line.
But there are certainly a couple of other designers on LVMH's radar. Gareth Pugh is the obvious one — rumors have run rampant about him taking over at Dior Homme ever since LVMH heiress Delphine Arnault sat front row at his debut menswear show, and Bernard Arnault has already confirmed that LVMH has helped finance Pugh's shows. Talking acquisitions, however, Rodarte may be a more likely candidate — Pierre-Yves Roussel, CEO of LVMH's fashion division, was in attendance at the Fall 2009 show, and soon after, Katherine Ross, PR honcho for LVMH, hosted a poolside tea party at the Chateau Marmont in LA for the designing duo, so they're definitely on the radar.
Bernard Arnault confirmed in January that Gareth Pugh wasn't the only "new talent" LVMH supports — "LVMH does that with many talented people" — so a number of other brands may be being looked at. Especially now, when as Arnault points it, it's a buyer's market — young brands with plenty of talent may need that big-company backing to keep them going.
>> Gareth Pugh never fails to surprise with his runway shows, and for Fall 2009, he pulled the rug out from under editors by showing them an eight-minute video when they came expecting a runway show. He's not the first — in recent seasons, Stefano Pilati, Viktor & Rolf, and the good people at Halston have all dabbled in the format — but using a video in place of a runway is polarizing, since it makes it harder to get a good look at the clothes. Natasa Vojnovic marches, writhes, and dances to demonic music in the mostly black-and-white film — which features one striking scene with her birthing herself from a bronze pod jacket. When interviewed on his choice, Gareth explained that he finds sending a girl walking up and down the catwalk "a little half-assed, for lack of a better word. It's a well-trodden formula and I think it's time for a change." And how appropriate that the first clear picture of the collection comes courtesy of Natasa, who walked away from the show in a Fall 2009 Pugh cape.
>> INSIDER WIRE — Just as Dolce & Gabbana streamed their D&G and Dolce & Gabbana shows live on the internet, Nick Knight's SHOWstudio promises that at 11 EST tomorrow, they'll be streaming Gareth Pugh's show live. Also part of the deal? An exclusive video interview with Gareth about the Fall 2009 collection, which hopefully will go up before the show . . . [SHOWStudio]
>> Gareth Pugh and the good people at LVMH may deny that Pugh hasn't been welcomed into the luxury group fold just yet, but there's definitely something going on between them. LVMH is financing Pugh's shows and keeping close watch on him for a future appointment or partnership — Dior Homme seem to be the suggestion.
"We’ve been helping with his shows. That’s what we always do, support new talent,” according to Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. "He’s an interesting designer, and it’s good to support him. Don’t ask me for the exact amount. But LVMH does that with many talented people."
The sum extended for Pugh's menswear show on Sunday is said to be a low, five figure sum, and sources say that Pugh has met with executives at LVMH headquarters. Karl Lagerfeld, who is creative director at LVMH-owned Fendi, is said to have advanced Pugh's candidacy for Dior Homme.
The opposing force of Luxotica is Geo Max. For the rare days I'm not feeling like an island girl and want to be serious, graphic prints, stripes, 3-D shapes, and polka dots will modernize my look. Most of these equations came in black and white, with the occasional blue, but one of my favorite Spring collections — Dries Van Noten — delivered it in marigold. The happy color made the geo seem less max, know what I mean? Notice the bold accessories though. Michael Kors also delivered his dots with whimsy, while on the flip side, Gareth Pugh took his dolls to space and back. Small doses, or to the max, choose your poison.
To experience Geo Max, read more
>> INSIDER WIRE —Earlier this week, deputy managing director at Christian Dior (and LVMH heiress) Delphine Arnault sat front row at Gareth Pugh's debut menswear show, prompting rumors that he is being looked at to either consult for Dior Homme or perhaps take over from Kris van Assche. So far, there's only been denial from both camps — Delphine chalked her appearance up to "always [being] interested in young designers," and a Pugh spokesman assured: "There have been no discussions whatsoever with Dior or LVMH about any kind of design role." [WWD]
Luxury companies keep making expensive suits, and wealthy people keep buying them.
Photos from the Acne Fall 2009 presentation, which took place in Stockholm this week, have dropped.
Fashionologie has the entire Marc Jacobs Spring 2009 ad campaign for our viewing pleasure.
>> Leave it to Fashion Week to turn up a juicy rumor or two. Currently being served up? The future of Gareth Pugh. At his premiere menswear show in Paris last night, an unexpected front row guest — LVMH heiress Delphine Arnault — caused a lot of chatter. Arnault, who is the second largest shareholder in LVMH after her father Bernard, is not known for staying out late, much less for a show which started an hour late at 10 pm on a rainy Sunday night.
After the show, which she deemed, "Beautiful, amazing," Delphine went backstage to congratulate Gareth. The designer has recently been talking about making more wearable pieces, and Arnault's appearance could be more than coincidence. As the Telegraph reports, "The word is out that someone very big wants to harness his talent, because it could be just the spark to reignite a moribund menswear market." Grazia has heard from several sources that that "very big" someone is LVMH's Dior Homme, who is about to tap Pugh as a consultant.