>> Gareth Pugh never fails to surprise with his runway shows, and for Fall 2009, he pulled the rug out from under editors by showing them an eight-minute video when they came expecting a runway show. He's not the first — in recent seasons, Stefano Pilati, Viktor & Rolf, and the good people at Halston have all dabbled in the format — but using a video in place of a runway is polarizing, since it makes it harder to get a good look at the clothes. Natasa Vojnovic marches, writhes, and dances to demonic music in the mostly black-and-white film — which features one striking scene with her birthing herself from a bronze pod jacket. When interviewed on his choice, Gareth explained that he finds sending a girl walking up and down the catwalk "a little half-assed, for lack of a better word. It's a well-trodden formula and I think it's time for a change." And how appropriate that the first clear picture of the collection comes courtesy of Natasa, who walked away from the show in a Fall 2009 Pugh cape.
>> INSIDER WIRE — Just as Dolce & Gabbana streamed their D&G and Dolce & Gabbana shows live on the internet, Nick Knight's SHOWstudio promises that at 11 EST tomorrow, they'll be streaming Gareth Pugh's show live. Also part of the deal? An exclusive video interview with Gareth about the Fall 2009 collection, which hopefully will go up before the show . . . [SHOWStudio]
>> Gareth Pugh and the good people at LVMH may deny that Pugh hasn't been welcomed into the luxury group fold just yet, but there's definitely something going on between them. LVMH is financing Pugh's shows and keeping close watch on him for a future appointment or partnership — Dior Homme seem to be the suggestion.
"We’ve been helping with his shows. That’s what we always do, support new talent,” according to Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. "He’s an interesting designer, and it’s good to support him. Don’t ask me for the exact amount. But LVMH does that with many talented people."
The sum extended for Pugh's menswear show on Sunday is said to be a low, five figure sum, and sources say that Pugh has met with executives at LVMH headquarters. Karl Lagerfeld, who is creative director at LVMH-owned Fendi, is said to have advanced Pugh's candidacy for Dior Homme.
The opposing force of Luxotica is Geo Max. For the rare days I'm not feeling like an island girl and want to be serious, graphic prints, stripes, 3-D shapes, and polka dots will modernize my look. Most of these equations came in black and white, with the occasional blue, but one of my favorite Spring collections — Dries Van Noten — delivered it in marigold. The happy color made the geo seem less max, know what I mean? Notice the bold accessories though. Michael Kors also delivered his dots with whimsy, while on the flip side, Gareth Pugh took his dolls to space and back. Small doses, or to the max, choose your poison.
To experience Geo Max, read more
>> INSIDER WIRE —Earlier this week, deputy managing director at Christian Dior (and LVMH heiress) Delphine Arnault sat front row at Gareth Pugh's debut menswear show, prompting rumors that he is being looked at to either consult for Dior Homme or perhaps take over from Kris van Assche. So far, there's only been denial from both camps — Delphine chalked her appearance up to "always [being] interested in young designers," and a Pugh spokesman assured: "There have been no discussions whatsoever with Dior or LVMH about any kind of design role." [WWD]
Luxury companies keep making expensive suits, and wealthy people keep buying them.
Photos from the Acne Fall 2009 presentation, which took place in Stockholm this week, have dropped.
Fashionologie has the entire Marc Jacobs Spring 2009 ad campaign for our viewing pleasure.
>> Leave it to Fashion Week to turn up a juicy rumor or two. Currently being served up? The future of Gareth Pugh. At his premiere menswear show in Paris last night, an unexpected front row guest — LVMH heiress Delphine Arnault — caused a lot of chatter. Arnault, who is the second largest shareholder in LVMH after her father Bernard, is not known for staying out late, much less for a show which started an hour late at 10 pm on a rainy Sunday night.
After the show, which she deemed, "Beautiful, amazing," Delphine went backstage to congratulate Gareth. The designer has recently been talking about making more wearable pieces, and Arnault's appearance could be more than coincidence. As the Telegraph reports, "The word is out that someone very big wants to harness his talent, because it could be just the spark to reignite a moribund menswear market." Grazia has heard from several sources that that "very big" someone is LVMH's Dior Homme, who is about to tap Pugh as a consultant.
>> INSIDER WIRE —Is Gareth Pugh going wearable fashion on us? Recently, the New York Times Magazine hinted he might be up for it, quoting his friend Nicola Formichetti in support: "There are people all over the world who are dying to be able to wear Gareth's pieces, and I'm sure in time, he will adapt to that and start making more wearable looks." Pugh himself told V he's "bored of inaccessible" and talks of "making [his ideas] into something tangible that people can actually understand." But he's never going to lose his showpieces entirely: "I don’t ever want to show just a dress." [NYT Magazine, V Magazine]
The Alexander McQueen for Target lookbook has finally surfaced, just in time for a March 1st launch at Target stores nationwide...
Gareth Pugh will be guest editing an issue of Time Out London alongside Daphne Guinness, both will model for the cover of the issue, wearing looks from Pugh's Spring 09 collection.