Gianfranco Ferré

>> MODA OPERANDI —When IT Holding filed for the Italian equivalent of bankruptcy in late February, casualties were to be expected among its fashion brands Malo and Gianfranco Ferre, not to mention its licenses.  Malo was shown in Milan as a small presentation soon after, instead of a full runway show in New York like seasons past — and the clothes couldn't hold a candle to the stunning collection designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua did for Spring 2009 back in September.  Now, the casualty is pretty clear — Dell'Acqua is leaving the brand after less than a year, and going forward, the line will be designed by a team, with a focus on its core knitwear identity. [WWD]

>> Milan is infamous for being one of the hardest markets to break open for models of color, and unfortunately, that still seems to be the case, based on tallying by The Cut.  The worst offenders? Burberry, Giorgio Armani, Missoni, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, who all only used one model of color, while Gianfranco Ferre, Jil Sander, and Prada didn't use any.

Meanwhile, buyers have spoken on their Milanese favorites: Jil Sander, Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, and Gianfranco Ferré — surprisingly, Missoni was not in the mix.

A number of critics and retailers have Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi on their lists as Milan's most promising up-and-coming talent, but their situation at Gianfranco Ferre is currently tenuous — the front row Friday included three government-appointed special administrators, a reminder that owner IT Holding faces bankruptcy proceedings, and could take Ferre, Just Cavalli, John Galliano, and Malo down with it.  Regardless, hopes are high — as Linda Fargo, fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, put it, "Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi continue to show the promise of world-class design for the future — both in their own line and at Gianfranco Ferré. We hope the dust settles favorably on Ferre as the two designers are hitting the right notes."  

Other highlights on the to-watch list: Christopher Kane at Versus and, for next season, Vionnet, under the care of Prada alum Rodolfo Paglialunga.
*image: source

Fashion loves the "one to watch" story, a boon to young designers struggling to showcase their wares to the often callous and entitled editorial class. It is the great irony of the fashion hierarchy that even as we pretend to nuture the new we too often ignore it in favor of more palatably established older lines. And yet season in and season out each Fashion Week lays claim to a hyped designer such that we may sacrifice them on the alter of the new. It isn't that fashion cares per say about the new designer, its just about giving good face.

And so Milan's duo to watch has been Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, despite not being so "new" as Rimondi has 20 years at MaxMara, but certainly because of their first collection at Gianfranco Ferre after the legendary architect and designer's death. And while said collection was generally positively received, it said little about their personal design, a subject of much interest about the shuttering of their equally "one to watch" line 6267. Production and textile junkies would do well to note that 6267 was produced by Castor srl, a production house run Picozzi family known for their luxury production and product development.

The duo has emerged with their own self titled line, free of any ties to Castor (and pity the poor house as 6267 was one of their better selling clients) on top of their work at Ferre. And yet one can't help but feel they are stretched too thin. The line looked beautiful, and we have little doubt the quality is stellar given their background, but palazzo pants, fringed coats, Lurex and lots of gaudy dresses didn't give us much of a chance to learn about the real philosphy behind the duo. The entire collction felt overstyled as baubles, bangles and even a Fez competed for our attention. We hope that this pair can refocus itself so we can learn something about this creative pair.