Haider Ackermann

fashion week

Haider Ackermann Fall 2013

On a runway shrouded by dry ice mist, Haider Ackermann sent out a Fall 2013 lineup that felt tough, powerful, and sublimely elegant.

On a runway shrouded by dry ice mist, Haider Ackermann sent out a Fall 2013 lineup that felt tough, powerful, and sublimely elegant. Models with two-inch roots in their spiked-and-bleached hair marched slowly to the eerie sounds of wind blowing and boots stomping, while intermittent piano music further spurred the aura of melancholia.

"I'm surrounded by so many strong women, but there’s always a fragility inside, and I wanted to explore that," the designer explained of the dystopian feeling that permeated the show. Suits, jackets, and coats were piled on in slouchy layers and oversize shapes, all of which were artfully draped, folded, and tailored in Ackermann's signature expert way. Fabrics were also similarly heavy and defensive and included monochrome wools, herringbone, leather, and superthick fur. The future may be dark, but at least we'll have something chic to wear.

Paris Fashion Week

Haider Ackermann Spring 2013

Working in a palette of black, brown, gray, and white, Haider Ackermann channeled his great talent for combining colors into something much more subdued for Spring 2013 — and the results were no less powerful.
Haider Ackermann Spring 2013 Runway

Working in a palette of black, brown, gray, and white, Haider Ackermann channeled his great talent for combining colors into something much more subdued for Spring 2013 — and the results were no less powerful. The designer's signature layered silhouettes were in full effect; at their best, they came in richly textured tiers that were sculpted beautifully at the shoulders, tucked and belted at the waist, and then left to ruffle out and flow languidly from hip to ankle. In dotted chiffon, leather, textured wool, and geometrically patterned silk, they were so artfully compiled that you almost didn't miss Ackermann's usual riot of color.

fashion week

Haider Ackermann Spring 2013

Haider Ackermann's Spring '13 collection was tinged with traditional Japanese origami influences, and kept in a moody color palette of black, grays, and browns.
Haider Ackermann Spring 2013 | Pictures

Haider Ackermann's Spring '13 collection was tinged with traditional Japanese origami influences, and kept in a moody color palette of black, grays, and browns. Ackermann's signature expert tailoring and love for layering really shone through — airy silk polka-dot print blouses were draped off the shoulder and topped with louche silk bed jackets, while low-cut tops and leather bandeaus got a jolt from tweedy jackets cinched at the waist with wide obi-style belts. Pants were either kept perfectly lean and cigarette-style or languid and pooling at the ankles. Gowns — yes, gowns — and slipdresses were presented over skinny trousers, adding fuel to the fire that is Spring 2013's dress-over-pants trend. Overall, Haider Ackermann's Spring 2013 collection was a darkly romantic tale of boy-meets-girl styling and East-meets-West sensibilities.

  • Trends: Polka dots, origami, bed jackets, layering.
  • Colors: Black, bronze, white, brown, navy, plum.
  • Key Piece: The open polka-dot blouse with tweed pants and printed silk robe.
  • Accessories: Leather cage wedges, wide waist belts, slim Y-necklaces.
  • Who Should Wear It: Penelope Cruz, Victoria Beckham, and Haider Ackermann devotee Tilda Swinton.
met gala

More Details About Who's Wearing What to the Met Gala (Updated!)

Heidi Klum, Karolina Kurkova, and Arizona Muse, among others, have revealed what they'll be wearing to Monday night's Met Gala.

Heidi Klum, Karolina Kurkova, and Arizona Muse, among others, have revealed what they'll be wearing to Monday night's Met Gala.

Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing told Style.com that he'll be taking model Joan Smalls as his date. Anthony Vaccarello has confirmed he'll be accompanied by Anja Rubik. Jason Wu will attend with Karlie Kloss, and Haider Ackermann will walk the red carpet with Constance Jablonski.

The site has also confirmed another spate of pairings: Roland Mouret is taking Doutzen Kroes; Rachel Zoe and her husband, Rodger Berman, will attend with Karolina Kurkova; Erdem Moralioglu will dress Arizona Muse; and Thakoon Panichgul is taking actress Christina Ricci.

It has also recently been revealed that Heidi Klum will wear a "very very lacy and very very see-through" one-of-a-kind dress by Escada. Chanel's official attendee will be French actor Gaspard Ulliel, face of the brand's Bleu de Chanel fragrance.

Previously confirmed pairings include Alexander Wang and rapper Azealia Banks, who tweeted that she would perform at the Met Gala last week; Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez with Australian actress Isabel Lucas; and Joseph Altuzarra with Lana Del Rey. Coco Rocha will attend with her husband, James Conran, wearing a vintage dress by Givenchy.

The Met Gala will be live streamed for the first time from 6:30-8:30 p.m. EDT on May 7.

Update: Everyone from Sarah Jessica Parker to Giovanna Battaglia has decided what they're wearing tonight. Below, a list of everything we know so far:

  • Kristen Stewart will wear Balenciaga and attend the Gala with Nicola Ghesquiere.
  • Gwyneth Paltrow will wear Prada. Linda Evangelista will also wear Prada, and will attend as Miuccia Prada's date.
  • Renee Zellweger will wear Emilio Pucci.
  • Jessica Stam will wear Dior.
  • Cameron Diaz will attend with Stella McCartney.
  • Lauren Santo Domingo will wear Oscar de la Renta.
  • Kate Upton will attend the gala with Michael Kors, who is also dressing Jessica Alba and Liu Wen.
  • Sarah Jessica Parker and Lily Cole wil both wear Valentino.
  • Amy Adams will wear Giambattista Valli Couture.
  • Scarlett Johansson is wearing custom Dolce & Gabbana, but the house will also dress Bianca Brandolini d'Adda, Andrea Dellal, Giovanna Battaglia, and Marpessa Hennink.
  • Brooklyn Decker, Liya Kebede, Rashida Jones, and Tory Burch will all wear gowns of Burch's design.
  • Kristen Bell and Dee Hilfiger will both wear Tommy Hilfiger.
  • Dree Hemingway will wear Topshop.
  • Farida Khelfa will wear vintage Schiaparelli.
  • Emma Stone will wear Lanvin.
  • Stella Tennant, Poppy Delvigne, Astrid Bergès-Frisbey, and Sigrid Agren will wear Chanel.
  • Claire Danes will attend the gala with her husband Hugh Dancy and Gilles Mendel. She'll wear J. Mendel, and so will Aerin Lauder and actress Christine Taylor. Taylor will attend with her husband Ben Stiller.
  • Burberry will be dressing Cara Delvigne, Jourdan Dunn, Gabriella Wilde, Vanessa Kirby, Douglas Booth, Mario Testino, Casey Affleck, and Roo Panes.
  • Prabal Gurung is dressing Greta Gerwig.

Photo: Doutzen Kroes wearing Giambattista Valli to the 2011 Met Gala.

Chanel

Haider Ackermann Hints At Move To Dior — Or Chanel

>> Because there wasn't enough speculation about the Dior job already, fashion news minders have honed in on a Haider Ackermann quote that suggests he wants to take over the reins at the storied French fashion house.

>> Because there wasn't enough speculation about the Dior job already, fashion news minders have honed in on a Haider Ackermann quote that suggests he wants to take over the reins at the storied French fashion house.

In an interview with the Financial Times, Ackermann revealed that he has his eye set on not just one creative director's chair, but two.

"There are two houses I would be interested in," Ackermann said. "Two where I feel there is shared sensibility, and I could bring something else of myself to the house, which isn't expressed in my own line."

Ackermann declined to tell FT which houses he was talking about, but did admit that his dream is to work on a couture collection. He's been rumored to be in the running for the Dior job since the house's last creative director, John Galliano, was fired last March, and Karl Lagerfeld told Numero in 2010 that he wanted Ackermann to succeed him at Chanel.

Ackermann says no matter which job he does next, he's prepared for the pressure. "This is fashion, it's not surgery," he said. "It's a job; a job with a lot of dreams woven in."

fashion week

Haider Ackermann Fall 2012

>> It's no wonder Haider Ackermann has so many fans.
Haider Ackermann Runway 2012 Fall

>> It's no wonder Haider Ackermann has so many fans. Artful draping, masterful tailoring, clever color-mixing — Ackermann excels at all. This season, the designer put those talents to great use, offering up a collection that felt modern, powerful, directional — and sublimely feminine. Strict silhouettes — think lean jackets, slim trousers, straight skirts — were punctuated by artful folds and sculptural drapes, then cinched with wide, hard belts for an exaggerated sense of proportion and drama. Perhaps most delightful, however, was Hackermann's masterful use of color. Rust, olive, umber, carmine, smoke, and cobalt — in synergistic combos, they really made you think.

Louis Vuitton

Report — Marc Jacobs Could Be Headed to Dior and Phoebe Philo to Louis Vuitton

>> A couple of weeks after rumors popped up suggesting that Marc Jacobs was at the top of the pack to take over as Dior's new designer, reports corroborate that the rumors just might be true.

>> A couple of weeks after rumors popped up suggesting that Marc Jacobs was at the top of the pack to take over as Dior's new designer, reports corroborate that the rumors just might be true.

According to WWD, Bernard Arnault is in talks with Jacobs about moving from Louis Vuitton to Dior, and meetings have reportedly been scheduled in Paris this week between Dior officials and legal representatives for Jacobs. Jacobs, who signed on as Vuitton's artistic director in 1997, has been in the midst of renewing his employment contract at Vuitton, but those discussions are said to have been put on hold, pending the outcome of Jacobs's discussions with Dior.

One source cautioned WWD that deal with Jacobs is not done, but both the designer and Dior management are so far "excited" about the prospect. If the deal goes through, Jacobs will get his first opportunity as a couturier, and his business partner Robert Duffy would come with him. Dior declined to comment on the reports, and Jacobs could not be reached for comment.

As for who would replace Jacobs at Vuitton, it sounds like Phoebe Philo could be first in line. LVMH has already reportedly held preliminary discussions with Philo, who is said to be "intrigued" by the project. If the shuffling plays out, it's reportedly likely she would design Vuitton in addition to Celine.

WWD reports that a number of potential candidates have been approached to succeed John Galliano, who exited Dior in March, including Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquière, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Hedi Slimane. Elbaz and Ghesquiere, who both have equity stakes in and strong commitments to the houses they design for, have withdrawn themselves from the running, and Burton is said to have rebuffed overtures. Talks with Ackermann and Slimane, meanwhile, did not end in an agreement. As for Riccardo Tisci, he is still considered a dark-horse candidate, and has been championed by Delphine Arnault, Dior deputy managing director and Bernard Arnault's daughter.

Viktor & Rolf

Tilda Swinton Works With a Creative Director for Her Red Carpet Looks Instead of a Stylist

>> Tilda Swinton has played muse for Viktor & Rolf and Haider Ackermann — she met both, as well as Alber Elbaz, Stefano Pilati, Phoebe Philo, and Raf Simons (who designed her wardrobe for the 2010 film I Am Love) — through her close friend Jerry Stafford, the creative director of a French production company, who she works with in place of a stylist.

>> Tilda Swinton has played muse for Viktor & Rolf and Haider Ackermann — she met both, as well as Alber Elbaz, Stefano Pilati, Phoebe Philo, and Raf Simons (who designed her wardrobe for the 2010 film I Am Love) — through her close friend Jerry Stafford, the creative director of a French production company, who she works with in place of a stylist. “He’s my playmate,” she says. “It’s a game, and we have great fun with it.”

Swinton cites David Bowie and her father, Major General Sir John Swinton, as her style icons, and says of working with friends on what she wears for the red carpet: “For someone to know what you need to make you comfortable, they need to know who you are. Having them make clothes for me is like being cooked for by someone who knows what you like to eat.”

For the one-sleeve black Lanvin sheath she wore to the 2008 Oscars, for instance, she told Elbaz she wanted “to attract as little attention as possible and to feel as comfortable as if I were wearing pajamas. Little did I know that the really simple, chic dress one might have worn in Paris or Berlin would stick out like a sore thumb in Los Angeles.”

Stafford also creative directed Swinton's cover story for the August 2011 issue of W (left) — together they created a mood board for the shoot.

Calvin Klein

Lara Stone Covers Vogue Paris August, Still Repping for Calvin Klein

>> Lara Stone graces Emmanuelle Alt's fourth Vogue Paris cover — Alt has yet to feature anyone other than a model on one of her covers — for August 2011, wearing Fall 2011 Haider Ackermann in a cinematic shot.

>> Lara Stone graces Emmanuelle Alt's fourth Vogue Paris cover — Alt has yet to feature anyone other than a model on one of her covers — for August 2011, wearing Fall 2011 Haider Ackermann in a cinematic shot. A peek at Stone's new Calvin Klein Collection campaign for Fall 2011 also just came out, which means that despite her recent stint for Tom Ford, her exclusive contract for the brand must still be going strong.