>> It's not every day that the finale of a fashion show is met with a tearful ovation or an audience that rushes the runway in unrestrained appreciation. As Raf Simons gave his final bow at Jil Sander today, he was met with both.
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It was "moving and spontaneous, and certainly not like anything I’ve experienced in 25 years of covering the industry," Cathy Horyn reported of the show's final moments. Federico Marchetti echoed the sentiment saying, "Raf was in tears at Jil Sander, the purest moment in fashion since I started in this industry."
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Of course, it's not every day that a designer presents a collection so lovely, elegant, or quite so poignant. It is also not every day that a designer who's done such a remarkable job leaves a successful post to go off into the great unknown.
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Regardless, it's true that wherever Simons goes he'll be just fine. Today's ice cream-hued swan song — which some say evoked a modern take on '50s Dior couture — was a triumph, not only in its breathtaking beauty, but in its optimism and promise as well.
Jil Sander Fall 2012
Raf Simons bowed out at Jil Sander with a soft pastel palette and minimalist silhouettes for Fall 2012. His finale — a modest showing of femininity in truly modern proportion — was met with a standing ovation. The trick was subtlety in both color play and the measure of each silhouette — colors were rich, but soft; cutouts were sexy, but never overt. There was grace and balance in every look. We're treated to evening wear in sporty-cum-sexy corsetted cocktail dresses, with a flash of patent that feels fresh and ladylike, never offensive; while tops are cut with lingerie-inspired, body-conscious detailing that's all at once provocative and elegant. The collection as a whole walks that line between innovation and restraint: a flash of metallics, an oversize powder pink coat. Each piece works in perfect balance delivering, above all, wearability. Jil Sander has some big shoes to fill when she returns to take the helm next season.
- Trends: Minimalist, pastels, metallics, jumpsuits, corsetted bodices, cutouts.
- Colors: Soft pink and blue, red, camel, nude, navy, white, and silver.
- Key Piece: The cutout jumpsuit that's sophisticated and just sexy enough.
- Accessories: Ankle-strap pointed-toe pumps, colored handheld clutch, and sophisticated leather satchels.
- Who Would Wear It: Girls like Kate Bosworth, Zoe Saldana, Kerry Washington; the femme with modern edge.

