Fall Fashion Week moved on to Paris over the weekend, with Lindsay Lohan front and center for a variety of shows. She shared the spotlight with Jared Leto and Charlize Theron at Friday's Christian Dior presentation, but Ms. Theron was back in LA by yesterday for the Oscars. Lindsay stuck around in France to party that night in a green dress before she turned out on Saturday for Viktor & Rolf, which she loved, and yesterday for John Galliano. LL was back on the scene last night to celebrate the launch of Turkish Vogue, as she takes her front row status from one country to the next.
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>> With the flashing lights and soundtrack of a thunderstorm, plus thumping hoofbeats and the braying of a horse, the Dior show was off this morning. The theme? "The Seduction of the Libertine," based on the 17th century Earl of Rochester — who John Galliano came out dressed like at the end, in poet's shirt and jodhpurs tucked into riding boots — and his courtesans.
“This season Dior takes up the heroic spirit of French romanticism and Mr. Dior’s beloved English riding tweeds. I was inspired by the drape, line and cut as well as the characters of the era. I wanted to create a new luxury, and new lover, in the romance of the seductive libertine of Dior,” Galliano explained backstage.
Anna Dello Russo took in the cape coats and printed chiffon dresses stomping by on Coco Rocha, Jessica Stam, Chanel Iman, Ana Beatriz Barros, and Karlie Kloss while sitting on the floor, and the show appeared to mark Anna Wintour's last this Paris Fashion Week — she was nowhere to be seen later at Lanvin.
>> Hamish Bowles Is a Former Fashion Show Crasher —In the Guardian's weekend article highlighting Central Saint Martins' Louise Wilson — who is responsible for cultivating talents like Gareth Pugh and Christopher Kane — Hamish Bowles recalls his time at the school: "When I started, John Galliano was in his graduating year, and he had an incredibly potent effect on myself and all my contemporaries. The denizens of the fashion department always had, I'd say, something of a superior attitude. It was also a great time for clubs. Cha Cha's was there; Leigh Bowery was emerging on the scene. Saint Martins students were heavily involved in that. You'd stay up all night creating the latest look for Taboo, not eat for days, then have a cake at Patisserie Valerie. You'd go to Paris Fashion Week and see how many shows you could get into. Pretend to be the make-up artist. That was actually a class project!" [Guardian]
John Galliano's daytime looks for Christian Dior pre-fall 2010 are equal parts women-in-combat and ladies-who-lunch. The former best expressed through military jackets, slick trenches, and WWII-style helmets, while the latter is represented by smart, fur-trimmed skirt suits with belted jackets. For evening, it was all about Hollywood film icons of the Forties—slip dresses with lingerie detailing paired with fur coats and draped gowns covered in sequins and feathers.
Paris ended Men's Fashion Week with a big bang as Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Rick Owens, to name a few, wowed us with an eclectic mix of runway looks. While Givenchy played around with manly skirts, others, like Dior Homme, focused on slick suiting options. Of course, I couldn't resist showing you some manjoyment from Givenchy's collection.
Spring Couture week kicks off with Christian Dior. Oh, yes. Inspired by one of the first American fashion designers, Charles James, renowned for being a master at cutting, the influence is evident in Galliano's highly dramatic, sculptured forms. Equestrian style, as well as romanticism, are also present. The house's current muse, Karlie Kloss, is adorably severe in a red peplum jacket and asymmetrical plaid skirt, veiled topper, whip, riding boots, et al. Bowed, cinched, and pleated gowns fit for a queen rule, while beading and lace supply lavish texture. Frothy white and meringue daywear round out the exquisite couture collection.
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>> Antonio Berardi On Working with John Galliano In Early '90s —As a Central Saint Martins student, Antonio Berardi started working for John Galliano. “I would make tea, I would unblock the toilet, whatever needed doing.” And in the early 1990s, when Galliano went bust and then moved from London to Paris after finding a French backer, Berardi went, too: “We lived in an amazing house that was full of antiques, but when everything got smashed, we were kicked out. We lived hand-to-mouth. John would get money, but he’d go out and lose his purse, so we would wait for someone to invite us out for dinner. When we didn’t have any money, I would buy flour and some oil and make bread.” [Times UK]
John Galliano Takes a Riding Crop to Spring 2010 Dior Couture, While Tavi's Giant Bow Grabs Some of the Attention
>> John Galliano kicked off Spring 2010 couture today with a show inspired by golden age designer Charles James (who influenced the original Christian Dior). However, much of the show's attention seems to pulled away from the clothes by the "outrageous pink bow," as one show attendee called it, on front rower Tavi Gevinson's head. A Grazia editor chimed in with "not best pleased to be watching couture through 13 year old Tavi's hat," and then posted a picture of her view from behind Tavi's Stephen Jones bow, with the caption, "Dior through Tavi's pesky hat."
But back to the runway. Riding habits and all the necessary accessories — whips and riding crops — abounded, flowing into frillier, ruffled numbers before ending in what appears to be a modern interpretation of the original Dior's Junon couture dress from Fall 1949. Galliano came out for his bow in full riding gear, dropping to one knee to kiss current Dior face Karlie Kloss's hand.
Curiously missing from the cast were Dior couture usuals Sasha Pivovarova and Natasha Poly; although Sigrid Agren and Georgina Stojiljkovic were both present after sitting last runway season out.